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ADDRESSED TO THE 

INDUSTRIOUS AND ECONOMICAL. 

CONTAINING 

SIMPLE AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 

FOR 

CULTIVATING PLANTS AND FLOWERS 

IN THE GARDEN AND IN ROOMS. 

EY LOUISA JOHNSON. 

Revised from the Fourteenth London Edition, and Adapted to the 

USE OF AMERICAN LADIES. 




NEW YORK: 
C. M. SAXTON, 

GRICULTURAL BOOK . PUBLISHER, 

1852. 




1r* 




Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1852, by 
C. M. SAXTON, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern 
District of New York. 



Pat 



S. W. BENEDICT, 
Stkukotypkr and Pkinijcb, 
1 6 Sj>riu:e street, A r . Y. 



rp 

£ * PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT. 



The Publisher, having found the want of small, cheap Books, of 
acknowledged merit, on the great topics of farming economy, and 
meeting for those of such a class a constant demand, offers, in his 
Rural Handbooks, of which this is one, works calculated to fill the 
void. 

He trusts that a discerning Public will both buy and read these 
little Treatises, so admirably adapted to all classes, and fitted by 
their size for the pocket, and thus readable at the fireside, on the 
road : and in short everywhere. 

C. M. SAXTON, 

Agricultural Book Publisher. 




I have been induced to compile this little work from hearing many of my 
companions regret that no single book contained a sufficiently condensed and 
general account of the business of a Flower Garden. " We require," they 
said, "a work in a small compass, which will enable us to become our own 
gardener ; we wish to know how to set about everything ourselves, without 
expense, without being deluged with Latin words and technical terms, and 
without being obliged to pick our way through multiplied publications, re- 
dolent of descriptions, and not always particularly lucid. We require a 
practical work, telling us of useful flowers, simple modes of rearing them, 
simply expressed, and free from lists of plants and roots which require ex- 
pensive methods of preservation. Some of us have gardens, but we cannot 
afford a gardener ; we like flowers, but we cannot attempt to take more 
than common pains to raise them. We require to know the hardiest flowers, 
and to comprehend the general business of the garden, undisturbed by fear 
of failure, and at the most economical scale of expense. Who will write us 
such a book ? J ' 



vi 



PREFACE. 



I have endeavored to meet their views ; and my plan of Floriculture may 
be carried into effect by any lady who can command the services of an old 
man, a woman, or a stout boy. In the present Edition, the publishers have 
added a paper on Window Gardening, written by Mr. M'Tntosh — and 
another on Domestic Greenhouses, an apparatus by which a small collec- 
tion of exotics may be given in great perfection, and by a process which 
any lady may superintend with much gratification. In every other respect 
the work is the result of my own experience, and I dedicate it to all of my 
own sex who delight in flowers, and yet cannot allow themselves to enter 
into great expense in their cultivation. 

LOUISA JOHNSON. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER h 



INTRODUCTION. 

Pleasures of Gardening — How conducive to health — Early taste for 
Gardening in England — Pleasure-gardens at Theobalds — Garden- 
ing for Ladies 9 

CHAPTER II. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

Situation for a Flower-garden — On improving the Soil — Aspect and 
choice of Flowers— Monthly Roses — Rustic Stages — Garden Tools 
and Working Dress — India-rubber Shoes indispensable 13 

CHAPTER III. 

LAYING OUT. 

Arrangement of Plants — Root-houses — Annuals — Biennials — Perennials 
— Planting out Beds — Amelioration of Soils — Monthly Lists of 
Flowers — Destructive habits of Hares and Rabbits — Snails, Ear- 
wigs, Mildew and Blight — Neatness and order indispensable in a 
well-kept Garden — Spring Plants — List of Perennials 18 

CHAPTER IV. 

BULBS AND PERENNIALS. 

Transplanting Bulbs— Advantage of Salt Manures — Best arrangement 
for choice Bulbs — Select Lists — Fibrous-rooted Flowers — Biennials 
— Their Propagation — Protection necessary 36 



CHAPTER V 



ANNUALS. 



Sowing and gathering Seed— Training and trimming Plants— List of 
Annuals 56 



vm 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VI. 



ROSES AND JASMINES. 



Poetry of Flowers — Varieties of Roses — Pyramids — Climbing Varieties 
Insects injurious to the Rose — List of Roses — Luxuriant appearance 
of the Jasmine — Devices for displaying its beauty 63 

CHAPTER VII. 

SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 

On Planting — Distance between each — Various modes of Propagating — 

List of best Garden Sorts — Pruning 69 

CHAPTER VIII. 

ON HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

Plants proper for Window Culture — Treatment of House Plants — Mode 
of Supply — Bulbs in Glasses — Nosegays and cut Flowers — Diseases 
of Plants 76 

CHAPTER IX. 

DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 

Form of Apparatus — Preparing the Soil — Draining — Principles of the 

Invention — Situation of Plants 91 

CHAPTER X. 



MONTHLY NOTICES. 

Recapitulation of Work to be done in each Month 



102 



LADIES' FLOWER GARDENER. 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

T has been well remarked that a garden affords the purest of 
! human pleasures. The study of Nature is interesting in all 
her manifold combinations : in her wildest attitudes, and in 
her artful graces. The mind is amused, charmed, and astonished 
in turn, with contemplating her inexhaustible display; and we wor- 
ship the God who created such pure and simple blessings for his 
creatures. These blessings are open to all degrees and conditions 
of men. Nature is not a boon bestowed upon the high-born, or 
purchased by the wealthy at a kingly price. The poor, the blind, 
the halt, and the diseased, enjoy her beauty, and derive benefit 
from her study. Every cottager enjoys the little garden which 
furnishes his table with comforts* and his mind with grateful feel- 
ings, if that mind is susceptible of religious impressions. He 
contemplates the gracious Providence which has bestowed such 
means of enjoyment upon him, as the Father whose all-seeing 
eye provides for the lowliest of his children ; and who has placed 
the " purest of human pleasures " within the reach of all who are 
not too blind to behold his mercy. With this blessed view before 
his mental sight, the cottager cultivates his little homestead. The 
flowers and fruits of the earth bud, bloom, and decay in their 
season ; but Nature again performs her deputed mission, and 
1* 



10 



ladies' flower gardener. 



spring- succeeds the dreary winter with renewed beauty and two- 
fold increase. Health accompanies simple and natural pleasures. 
The culture of the ground affords a vast and interminable field of 
observation, in which the mind ranges with singular pleasure, 
though the body travels not. It surrounds home with an un- 
ceasing interest ; domestic scenes become endeared to the eye 
and mind ; worldly cares recede ; and we may truly say — 

" For us kind Nature wakes her genial power, 
Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower! 
Annual for us, the grape, the rose, renew 
The juice nectarious. and the balmy dew : 
For us, the mine a thousand treasures brings ; 
For us, health gushes from a thousand springs." 

Eth. ep. i. ver. 129. 

The taste for gardening in England began to display itself in 
the reign of Edward III., in whose time the first work on the 
subject was composed by Walter de Henly. Flower-gardening 
followed slowly in its train. The learned Linacre, who died in 
1524, introduced the damask rose from Italy into England. King 
James I. of Scotland, when a prisoner in Windsor Castle, thus 
describes its " most faire " garden : — 

" Now was there maide fast by the towris wall, 
' A garden faire, and in the corneris set 

An herbere green, with wandis long and small 
Railit about, and so with treeis set 
Was all the place, and hawthorn hedges knet, 
That lyfe was now, walking, there forbye, 
That might within scarce any wight espie, 

So thick the bowis and the leves grene 

Bercandit all, the alleyes all that there were; 

And myddis every herbere might be sene 
The scharpe grene swete junipere 
Growing so fair, with branches here and there, 
That, as it seymt to a lyfe without, 
The bowis spred the herbere all about." 

The Quair. 

Henry VIII. ordered the formation of his garden at Nonsuch 
about the year 1509, and Leland says it was a "Nonpareil." 



INTRODUCTION. 



11 



Hentyner assures us of its perfect beauty, describing one of its 
marble basins as being set round with " lilac trees, which trees 
bear no fruit, but only a pleasant smell." 

The pleasure-gardens at Theobalds, the seat of Lord Burleigh, 
were unique, according to the report of Lyson, In it were nine 
knots exquisitely made, one of which was set forth in likeness of 
the king's arms. " One might walk two myle in the walks before 
he came to an end." 

Queen Elizabeth was extremely fond of flowers, and her taste 
ever influenced that of her court. Gilliflowers, carnations, tulips, 
Provence and musk roses, were brought to England in her reign. 

William III. loved a pleasaunce or pleasure-garden ; but he 
introduced the Dutch fashion of laying them out, which is still 
horrible in our eyes. His Queen superintended in person all her 
arrangements in the flower-garden, — an amusement particularly 
delightful to her. In those days, " knottes and mazes " were no 
longer the pride of a parterre, with a due allowance of " pleasant 
and fair fishponds." 

Queen Anne remodeled the gardens at Kensington, and did 
away with the Dutch inventions. Hampton Court was also laid 
out in a more perfect state in her reign, under the direction of 
Wise. 

• Since that period, flower- gardening has progressed rapidly ; 
and the amusement of floriculture has become the dominant pas- 
sion of the ladies of Great Britain. It is a passion most blessed 
in its effects, considered as an amusement or a benefit. Nothing 
humanizes and adorns the female mind more surely than a taste 
for ornamental gardening. It compels the reason to act, and the 

judgment to observe; it is favorable to meditation of the most 
serious kind ; it exercises the fancy in harmless and elegant occu- 
pation, and braces the system by its healthful tendency. A 
flower-garden, to the young and single of my sex, acts upon the 



12 



ladies' flower gardener. 



heart and affections as a nursery acts upon the matronly feelings. 
It attaches them to their home ; it throws a powerful charm over 
the spot dedicated to such deeply-interesting employment ; and 
it lures them from dwelling too deeply upon the unavoidable dis- 
appointments and trials of life, which sooner or later disturb and 
disquiet the heart. 

An amusement which kings and princes have stamped with 
dignity, and which has afforded them recreation under the toils 
of government, must become for ever venerated, and will be 
sought for by every elegant as well as by every scientific mind. 
Floriculture ranges itself under the head of female accomplish- 
ments in these our days ; and we turn with pity from the spirit 
which will not find in her "garden of roses" the simplest and 
purest of pleasures. 



GENERAL remarks. 



13 



CHAPTER II. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

N the laying out of a garden, the soil and situation must be 
considered as much as the nature of the ground will admit. 
Let no lady, however, despair of being able to raise fine flow- 
ers upon any soil, providing the sun is not too much excluded, for 
the rays of the sun are the vital principle of existence to all vege- 
tation. The too powerful rays can be warded off by the arts of in- 
vention, but we have yet no substitute for that glorious orb. Unless 
its warm and forcing influence is allowed to extend over the surface 
of the garden, all flowers wither, languish, and die. Sun and air 
are the lungs and heart of flowers. A lady will be rewarded for 
her trouble in making her parterre in the country ; but in large 
towns, under the influence of coal smoke, shade, and gloom, her 
lot will be constant disappointment. She can only hope to keep 
a few consumptive geraniums languishing through the summer 
months, to die in October, and show the desolating view of rows 
of pots containing blackened and dusty stems. 

Many soils which are harsh or arid, are susceptible of improve- 
ment by a little pains. Thus, a stiff clay, by digging well and 
leaving it to become pulverized by the action of the frost, and 
then mixing plenty of ashes with it, becomes a fine mould, which 
I have ever found most excellent for all flowers of the hardier 
kind. The black soil is the richest in itself, and requires no assist- 
ance beyond changing it about a foot in depth every three years, 
as a flower garden requires renewing, if a lady expects a succes- 




14 



ladies' flower gardener. 



sion of handsome flowers. The ground should be well dug the 
latter end of September or October, or even in November, and if 
the soil is not sufficiently fine, let it be dug over a second or third 
time, and neatly raked with a very fine-toothed rake. 

Stony ground requires riddling well, and great care must be 
taken to keep it neat by picking up the little stones which con- 
stantly force themselves to the surface after rains. Nothing is so 
unbecoming as weeds and stones in parterres, where the eye seeks 
flowers and neatness. 

Almost every plant loves sand ; and if that can be procured, it 
enriches and nourishes the soil, especially for bulbs, pinks, carna- 
tions, auriculas, hyacinths, &c. Let it be mixed in the proportion 
of a third part to the whole. 

If the dead leaves are swept into a mound every autumn, and 
the soap suds, brine, &c, of the house be thrown upon it, the 
mass will quickly decompose, and become available the following 
year. It makes an admirable compost for auriculas, &c, mixed 
with garden or other mould. 

If the ground be a gravelly soil, the flower-garden should not 
slope, for stony ground requires all the moisture you can give it, 
while the sloping situation would increase the heat and dryness. 
A moist earth, on the contrary, would be improved by being 
sloped towards the east or west. 

The south is not so proper for 'flowers, as a glaring sun withers 
the tender flowers ; but the north must be carefully avoided, and 
shut out by a laurel hedge, a wall, or any rural fence garnished 
with hardy creepers, or monthly roses, which make a gay and 
agreeable defense. Monthly roses are invaluable as auxiliaries of 
all kinds. They will grow in any soil, and bloom through the 
winter months, always giving a delicate fragrance, and smiling 
even in the snow. Monthly roses will ever be the florist's de- 
light : they are the hardiest, most delicate-looking, and greenest- 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



15 



leaved of garden productions ; they give no trouble, and speedily 
form a beautiful screen against any offensive object. No flower 
garden should exist without abundance of monthly roses. 

It has often been a disputed point whether flower gardens 
should be intersected with gravel walks or with grass plots. 
This must be left entirely to the taste and means of the party 
forming a garden. Lawn is as wet and melancholy in the winter 
months, as it is beautiful and desirable in summer ; and it requires 
great care and attention in mowing and rolling, and trimming 
round the border. Gravel walks have this advantage : the first 
trouble is the last. They will only require an old woman's or a 
child's assistance in keeping them free from weeds ; and a lady 
has not the same fears of taking cold, or getting wet in her feet, 
during the rains of autumn and spring. 

Many females are unequal to the fatigue of bending down to 
flowers, and particularly object to the stooping posture. In this 
case, ingenuity alone is required to raise the flowers to a conve- 
nient height ; and, by so doing, to increase the beauty and pic- 
turesque appearance of the garden. Old barrels cut in half, tubs, 
pails, &c, neatly painted outside, or adorned with rural orna- 
ments, and raised upon feet neatly carved, or mounds of earth, 
stand in lieu of richer materials, such as vases, parapet walls, and 
other expensive devices, which ornament the gardens of the 
wealthy. I have seen these humble materials shaped into forms 
as pleading to the eye, and even more consonant to our damp 
climate, than marble vases. They never look green from time, 
and are renewed at a very trifling expense. A few pounds of 
nails, and the unbarked thinnings from fir plantations, are the 
sole requisites towards forming' any device which a tasteful fancy 
can dictate ; and a little green paint adds beauty and durability 
when the bark falls from the wood it protects. I have seen fir 
balls nailed on to these forms in tasteful patterns; and creepers 



16 



ladies' flowee gaedenee. 



being allowed to fall gracefully over the brims, give a remark- 
ably pleasing and varied appearance to the parterre. 

Where mould is not easily to be procured — as, for instance, in 
towns — the tubs or receptacles may be half filled with any kind 
of rubble, only space must be left to allow of two feet of fine 
mould at the top, which is quite sufficient for bulbous roots, 
creepers, &c. These receptacles have one powerful advantage 
over ground plots ; they can be moved under sheds, or into out- 
houses, during the heavy rains or frosts of winter ; and thereby 
enable a lady to preserve the more delicate flowers, which would 
deteriorate by constant exposure to inclement weather. 

A lady requires peculiar tools for her light work. She should 
possess a light spade ; two rakes, one with very fine teeth, and 
the other a size larger, for cleaning the walks when they are 
raked, and for raking the larger stones from the garden borders. 
A light garden fork is very necessary to take up bulbous or other 
roots with, as the spade would wound and injure them, w T hereas 
they pass safely through the interstices of the fork or prong. A 
watering-pot is indispensable, and a hoe. Two trowels are like- 
wise necessary ; one should be a tolerable size, to transplant pe- 
rennial and biennial flower roots ; the other should be pointed 
and small, to transplant the more delicate roots of anemones, 
bulbs, &c. 

The pruning-knife must be always sharp, and, in shape, it 
should bend a little inwards, to facilitate cutting away straggling 
or dead shoots, branches, &c. The " avroncator," lately so much 
in request, is an admirable instrument ; but it is expensive, and 
of most importance in shrubberies, where heavy branches are to 
be cut away. The Sieur Louis d'Auxerre, who wrote a work 
upon gardening in 1706, has a sketch of the avroncator of the 
present day, which he designates as caterpillar shears. 

A light pair of shears, kept always in good order, is necessary 



GENERAL REMARKS. 



17 



to keep privet or laurel hedges properly clipped ; and a stout 
deep basket must be deposited iu the tool-shed, to contain the 
weeds and clippings. These are the only tools absolutely essen- 
tial to a lady's garden. I have seen a great variety decorating 
the wall of an amateur tool -house, but they must have been in- 
tended for show, not for use. A real artiste, in whatever pro- 
fession she may engage, will only encumber herself with essen- 
tials. All else is superfluous. 

I have reserved two especially necessary recommendations to the 
last, being comforts independent of the tool-house. Every lady 
should be furnished with a gardening apron, composed of stout 
Holland, with ample pockets to contain her pruning- knife, a small 
stout hammer, a ball of string, and a few nails and snippings of 
cloth. Have nothing to do with scissors ; they are excellent in 
the work-room, but dangerous in a flower garden, as they wrench 
and wound the stems of flowers. The knife cuts slanting, 
which is the proper way of taking off slips ; and the knife is 
sufficient for all the purposes of a flower garden, even for cutting 
string. 

The second article which 1 pronounce to be indispensable is a 
pair of India rubber shoes, or the wooden high-heeled shoes 
called " sabots " by the French. In these protections, a lady 
may indulge her passion for flowers at all seasons, without risk 
of rheumatism or chills, providing it does not actually rain or 
snow : and the cheering influence of the fresh air, combined with 
a favorite amusement, must ever operate beneficially on the mind 
and body in every season of the year. 



18 



ladies' flower gardener. 



CHAPTER III. 

ON LAYING- OUT. 

j^HERE are many modes of adorning a small piece of ground, 
so as to contain gay flowers and plants, and appear double its 
real size. By covering every wall or palisade with monthly 
roses and creepers of every kind, no space is lost, and unsightly ob- 
jects even contribute to the general effect of a "Plaisaunce." The 
larger flowers, such as hollyhocks, sunflowers, &c, look to the 
best advantage as a back ground, either planted in clumps, or 
arranged singly. Scarlet lychnis, campanula, or any second- 
sized flowers, may range themselves below, and so in graduated 
order, till the eye reposes upon a foreground of pansies, auriculas, 
polyanthuses, and innumerable humbler beauties. Thus all are 
seen in their order, and present a mass of superb coloring to the 
observer, none interfering with the other. The hollyhock does 
not shroud the lowly pansy from displaying its bright tints of yel- 
low and purple ; neither can the sturdy and gaudy sunflower hide 
the modest double violet or smartly clad anemone from observa- 
tion. Each flower is by this mode of planting distinctly seen, 
and each contributes its beauty and its scent, by receiving the 
beams of the sun in equal proportions. 

If the trunk of a tree stands tolerably free from deep over- 
shadowing branches, twine the creeping rose, the late honey- 
suckle, or the everlasting pea round its stem, that every inch of 
ground may become available. The tall naked stem of the 
young ash looks well festooned with roses and honeysuckles. 




ON LAYING OUT. 



19 



Wherever creeping flowering plants can live, let them adorn every 
nook and corner, stem, wall, and post ; they are elegant in ap- 
pearance, and many of them, particularly clematis, are delicious 
in fragrant scent. 

If flowers are planted in round or square plots, the same rule 
applies in arranging them. The tallest must be placed in the 
center, but I recommend a lady to banish sunflowers and holly- 
hocks from her plots, and consign them to broad borders against 
a wall, or in clumps of three and three, as a screen against the 
north, or against any unsightly object. Their large roots draw 
so much nourishment from the ground, that the lesser plants suf- 
fer, and the soil becomes quickly exhausted. Like gluttons, they 
should feed alone, or their companions will languish in starvation, 
and become impoverished. The wren cannot feed with the vul- 
ture. 

The soutli end or corner of a moderate flower garden should 
be fixed upon for the erection of a root house, which is not an 
expensive undertaking, and which forms a picturesque as well as 
a most useful appendage to a lady's parterre. Thinnings of 
plantations, which are everywhere procured at a very moderate 
charge, rudely shaped and nailed into any fancied form, may 
supply all that is needful to the little inclosure ; and a thatch of 
straw, rushes, or heather, will prove a sure defense to the roof 
and back. There, a lady may display her taste by the beauty of 
the flowers which she may train through the rural frame-work. 
There, the moss-rose, the jessamine, the honeysuckle, the convol- 
vulus, and many other bright and beautiful flowers, may escape 
and cluster around her, as she receives rest and shelter within 
their graceful lattice-work. There, also, may be deposited the 
implements of her vocation ; and during the severe weather, its 
warm precincts will protect the finer kinds of carnations, pinks, 



20 



ladies' flower gardener. 



auriculas, &c, which do not bear the heavy rains, or frosts of 
lengthened duration, without injuring the plant. 

Flowers are divided into three classes : — annuals, biennials, 
and perennials. 

Annuals are those flowers which are raised from seeds alone, in 
the spring, and which die in the autumn. They are again divi- 
ded into three classes : — the tender and more curious kinds ; the 
less tender or hardier kinds ; and the hardiest and common kinds. 

Biennials are those flowers which are produced by seed, bloom 
the second year, and remain two years in perfection, after which 
they gradually dwindle and die away. 

Some sorts, however, of the biennials, afford a continuation of 
plants by offsets, slips, and cuttings of the tops, and by layers 
and pipings, so that, though the parent flower dies, the species 
are perpetuated, particularly to continue curious double-flowered 
kinds, as for instance, double rockets, by root offsets, and cuttings 
of the young flower-stalks ; double wallflowers by slips of the 
small top shoots ; double sweet-williams by layers and pipings ; 
and carnations by layers. 

Perennials are those flowers which continue many years, and 
are propagated by root offsets, suckers, parting roots, &c, as 
will be more fully particularised under the head of Perennials. 

It has been a debated point among florists whether plots or 
baskets should be devoted each to a particular variety of flower, 
or receive flowers of different kinds, flowering at separate seasons. 
Thus, many ladies set apart one plot of ground for anemones only 
— another plot receives only pansies, and so on. There is much 
to be said on both sides the question. 

If a plot of ground is devoted to one variety of flower only, 
you can give it the appropriate mould, and amuse your eye with 
its expanse of bright coloring. Nothing is more beautiful than 
a bed of pansies, or a bed of the bright and glowing scarlet ver- 



ON LAYING OUT. 



21 



bina ; nothing can exceed the gay and flaunty tints of a bed of 
tulips, or the rich hues of the lilac and the white petunia. A 
large space of garden allows its possessor to revel in separate 
beds of flowers, whose beauty is increased twofold by masses ; 
and from that very space, the eye does not so easily discover the 
melancholy appearance of one or more plots exhibiting nothing 
but dark mould, and withered stems, arising from the earlier 
sorts being out of bloom. 

But in less spacious gardens, this gloomy and mournful vacuum 
must be avoided. Every border and plot of ground should ex- 
hibit a gay succession of flowers in bloom ; and that object can 
only be effected by a pretty equal distribution of flowers of early 
and late growth. As the May flowers droop, the June produc- 
tions supply their place ; and these, again, are followed in succes- 
sion, till the Golden rod and Michaelmas day daisy announce the 
decadence of the parterre for the year. 

Yet every flower may be supplied with its favorite soil with a 
little patience and observation. A light soil suits all descriptions 
very well ; and I never yet found disappointment in any descrip- 
tion of earth which was thoroughly well dug, and dressed yearly 
from the mound of accumulated leaves and soap-suds, alluded to 
in the first chapter. I particularly recommend a portion of sand 
mixed with the heap. All bulbs, carnations, pinks, auriculas, 
ranunculuses, &c, love a mixture of sand. I know no flowers of 
the hardy class which reject it. Mix sand well into your borders 
and plots, and you will not fail to have handsome flowers. 

I subjoin a list of common flowers appertaining to each month, 
in order to fill the borders with one or more roots of each 
variety. I do not include the annuals. 



22 



ladies' flower gardener. 



JANUARY. 

In this month the following flowers are in blow 



Single Anemones 
Winter Cyclamens 
Michaelmas Daisy 
Hepaticas 



Primroses 
Winter Hyacinth 
Narcissus of the East 
Christmas Rose 



Single Anemones 
Forward Anemones 
Persian Iris 
Spring Crocus 



FEBRUARY. 

Single Yellow Gilliflower 
Single Liverwort ' 
Winter Aconite 
Hepaticas 



Bulbous Iris 
Anemones of all sorts 
Spring Cyclamens 
Liverwort of all sorts 
Daffodils 
Crowfoots 
Spring Crocus 



Hyacinths of all sorts 
Jonquils 

Yellow Gilliflower 
Narcissus of several kinds 
Forward Bears'-ears 
Forward Tulips 

Single Primroses of divers colors 



APRIL. 



Daisies 

Yellow Gilliflowers 
Narcissus of all sorts 
Forward Bears'-ear 
Spring Cyclamens 

Crocus, otherwise called Saffron- 
flowers 
Anemones of all sorts 
Iris 

Pansies 
Daffodils 



Double Liverworts 

Primroses 

Honeysuckles 

Tulips 

Hyacinths 

Single Jonquils 

Crown-Imperial 

Yellow Gilliflowers, double and 

single 
Pasque-Flowers 
March Violets 



Anemones 

Gilliflowers of all sorts 
Yellow Gilliflowers 
Columbines 
Asphodils 

Orange, or flame-colored Lilies 

Double Jacea, a sort of Lychnis 

Cyan uses of all sorts 

Hyacinths 

Day Lilies 

Bastard Dittany 

Daisies 

Lily of the Valley 



Mountain Pinks 
Pansies 

Peonies of all sorts 

Ranunculuses of all sorts 

Some Irises : as those which we 

call the Bulbous Iris, and the 

Chamac-Iris 
Italian Spiderw T ort, a sort of As- 

phodil 
Poet's Pinks 
Backward Tulips 

Julians, otherwise called English 
Gilliflowers 



ON LAYING OUT. 



Snap-dragons of all sorts 
Wild Tansies 

Pinks, otherwise called Lychnises 

Irises 

Roses 

Tuberoses 

Pansies 

Larkspur 

Great Daisies 



Climbers 

Cyanuses of all sorts 
Foxgloves of all sorts 
Mountain Lilies 
Gilliflowers of all sorts 
Monk's-hoods 
Pinks of all sorts 
Candy-tufts 
Poppies 



JULY. 



Jessamine 
Spanish Brown 
Basils 

Bell-flowers 

Indian Jacea 

Great Daisies 

Monk's-hoods 

Pinks 

Scabiuses 

Nigellas 

Cyclamens 

Lobel's Catch-flies 

Lilies of all sorts 

Apples of Love 

Comfrey 

Poppies 

Snap-dragons 

Double Marigolds 

Amaranthuses 

Hellebore 

Ox-eyes 



Pinks of the Poets 

Bee-flowers 

Sea-hollies 

Foxgloves 

Wild Poppies 

Everlastings 



Dittanies 

Bindweeds 

Lilies of St. Bruno 

Tricolors 

Squills 

Motherworts 

Climbers 

O cuius Christi 

Camomile 

Sunflowers 

Belvederes 

Gilliflowers of all sorts 

Thorn-apple 

Valerian 



Oculus Christi, otherwise called 

Starwort 
Belvederes 
Climbers of all sorts 
Apples of Love 
Marvels of Peru 
Pansies 
Ranunculuses 
Double Marigolds 
Candy-tufts 
Autumn Cyclamens 
Jessamines 

Sunflowers, vivacious and annual 
Indian Narcissus 



Foxgloves 

Cyclamens 

Passion-flowers 

Everlastings 

Tuberoses 

Monk's-hood 

Indian Pinks of all kinds 

Bindweed 

Paesvelours 

Great Daisies 

White Bell-flower 

Autumnal Meadow Saffron 

Gilliflowers 



24 



ladies' flower gardener. 



SEPTEMBER. 



Tricolors 

Love-apples 

Marvel of Peru 

Monk's-hood 

Narcissus of Portugal 

Snap-dragons 

Oculus Christi 

Basils 

Belvederes 

Great Daisies 

Double Marigolds 

Monthly Roses 

Tuberoses 



Amaryllis 

Autumnal Narcissus 
White Bell-flowers 
Indian Pinks 
Indian Roses 
Amaranthus 
Pansies 
Passion-flower 
Autumnal Crocus 
Thorn-apple 
Carnations • 

Ranunculuses planted in May 
Colchicums 



OCTOBER. 



Tricolors 
Oculus Christi 
Snap-dragons 
Colchicums 
Autumn Crocus 
Autumnal Cyclamens 
Monk's- hood 
Indian Pinks 



Pansies that were sown in August 

Passion-flower 

Passvelours 

Double Marigolds 

Some Pinks 

Amaryllis 

Autumnal Narcissus 



NOVEMBER. 



Snap-dragons 

Double and Single Gilliflowers 
Great Daisies 
Pansies sown in August 
Monthly Roses 



Double Violets 
Single Anemones of all sorts 
Winter Cyclamens 
Forward Hellebore 
Golden Rod 



Rabbits are an intolerable nuisance in a flower garden, and in 
some country places tbey abound most destructively. A light 
wire fence about two feet high, closely lattice-worked, or a net 
of the same height, carried round the garden, is a sure defense 
from these marauders. But where these conveniences are unat- 
tainable, there are other modes which answer the purpose, but 
they require a little trouble and patience. 

It is the well-known nature of Rabbits and Hares to dislike 
climbing or entangling their feet; and very simple inventions 
deter them from attempting to gnaw the roots and hearts of 



ON LAYING- OUT. 



25 



flowers. They will not walk upon straw or ashes strewed thickly 
round any plant : they equally dislike a fence of sticks placed 
round a plot, with bits of white paper or card fastened to each 
stick ; or a string carried round the sticks a foot or two high. 
If they cannot creep under a slight fence, they never attempt to 
leap over it. If a stick is run into the ground close to a plant, 
and other sticks are slanted from the ground towards the center, 
the plant will remain untouched, be the frost of ever so long 
duration. 

Snails are disagreeable intruders, but the following method is 
an exterminating war of short duration : — 

Throw cabbage leaves upon your borders over night ; in the 
morning, early, you will find them covered underneath with 
snails, which have taken refuge there. Thus they are easily 
taken and destroyed. 

Earwigs are taken in great numbers by hanging gallipots, 
tubes, or any such receptacle, upon low sticks in the borders over 
night. In these they shelter themselves, and are consequently 
victimized in the morning. The gallipots, broken bottles, &c, 
should be placed upon the stick like a man's hat, that the vermin 
may ascend into them. 

Ants are very great enemies to flowers ; but I know no method 
of attacking them, except in their own strongholds, which I have 
always done with cruel intrepidity and success. My only plan 
was to lay open the little ant-hill, and pour boiling water upon 
the busy insects, which destroyed at once the commonwealth, 
and the eggs deposited within the mound. In some places ants 
are extremely large and abundant, and they quickly destroy the 
beauty of a flower by attacking its root and heart.* 

* The Emperor Pagonatus, who wrote a treatise upon agriculture, assures 
us, that to clear a garden of ants, we should burn empty snail shells with 
storax wood, and throw the ashes upon the ant-hills, which obliges them to 
remove. I never tried this method. 

2 



26 



ladies' flowek gardener. 



Mildew and blight infest roses and honey-suckles. Soap-suds 
thrown over rose bushes ; heavy waterings with tobacco- water, 
or the water in which potatoes have been boiled, is successful in 
a degree, but the best way is a very troublesome one to perse- 
vere in. Pinch every leaf well which curls up, by which you 
may know a small maggot is deposited therein. By so doing 
you destroy the germ of a thousand little monsters. 

Mildew and blight come from the east ; therefore honeysuckles 
should be sheltered from that aspect ; for, as they rise and spread 
widely, they are not so manageable as a rose-bush. A mass of 
luxuriant honeysuckles is beautiful to the eye and delicious in 
fragrance : but covered with mildew, it is a blackened and miser- 
able object. Mildew, fortunately, does not make its appearance 
every spring ; but once in four or five years it comes as a plague, 
to desolate the garden. A great deal may be raked away if 
taken off as soon as it spreads its cobwebs over these lovely 
flowers ; but it should be done without delay. 

I cannot lay too great stress upon the neatness in which a 
lady's garden should be kept. If it is not beautifully neat, it is 
nothing. For this reason, keep every plant distinct in the flower- 
beds ; let every tall flower be well staked, that the wind may not 
blow it prostrate ; rake away dead leaves from the beds, and 
trim every flower-root from discolored leaves, weeds, &c. ; re- 
move all weeds and stones the moment they appear, and clear 
away decaying stems, which are so littering and offensive to the 
eye. There is always some employment of this kind for every 
week in the year. 

Old iron rods, both large and small, are to be procured cheap 
at the ironmongers. These old rusty rods, painted green, or lead 
color, are excellent stakes for supporting flowers, and do not 
wear out. The slighter rods are very firm upright supporters 
for Carnations, Pinks, &c, while the taller and larger rods are 



ON LAYING OUT. 



27 



the firmest and best poles for hollyhocks, sunflowers, and the 
larger class of plants. Fix the flower stem to its stake with 
string, or the tape of the bass matting, soaked in water to pre- 
vent its cracking, and tie it sufficiently tight to prevent the wind 
tearing it from its position. Tie the large stems in three places 
for security. 

The term Deciduous, applied to shrubs, signifies that they 
shed their leaves every winter. 

Herbaceous plants, signify those plants whose roots are not 
woody, such as stocks, wallflowers, &c. &c. 

Fibrous-rooted, plants, are those whose roots shoot out small 
fibers, such as Polyanthuses, violets, &c. 

Tuberous-rooted plants, signify those roots which form and 
grow into little tubes, such as Anemones, Ranunculuses, &o. 

PERENNIALS. 

Perennials are flowers of many years' duration ; and they 
multiply themselves most abundantly by suckers, offsets, parting 
the roots, <fcc. They require little trouble beyond taking care to 
renew the soil every year or two by a somewhat plentiful supply 
from the compost heap ; and by separating the offsets, and part- 
ing the roots in autumn, to strengthen the mother plant. When 
the flowers are past and the stems have deca}^ed, then the opera- 
tion may take place. Choose a showery day for transplanting 
the roots, or give them a moderate watering to fix them in their 
fresh places. When you transplant a flower root, dig a hole with 
your trowel sufficiently large to give the fibers room to lie freely 
and evenly in the ground. 

I have, throughout my little work, laid great stress upon pos- 
sessing a heap of compost, ready to apply to roots and shrubs 
every spring and autumn. Wherever the soil is good the flowers 



28 



ladies' flower gardener. 



will bloom handsomely ; and no lady will be disappointed of that 
pleasure, if a compost heap forms one essential, in a hidden cor- 
ner of the flower garden. If you raise your perennials from 
seed, sow it in the last week in March in a bed of light earth, in 
the open ground. Let the bed be in a genial, warm situation, 
and divide it into small compartments ; a compartment for each 
sort of seed. 

Sow the seed thin, and rake or break the earth over them finely. 
Let the larger seed be sown half an inch deep, and the smaller 
seed a quarter of an inch. Water the beds in dry weather often 
with a watering pot, not a jug. The rose of the watering pot 
distributes the water equally among the seedlings ; whereas, 
water dashed upon them from a jug falls in masses, and forms 
holes in the light earth, besides prostrating the delicate seedling. 

About the end of May, the seedlings will be fit to remove into 
another nursery bed, to gain strength till October ; or be planted 
at once where they are to remain. Put the plants six inches 
apart, and water them moderately, to settle the earth about their 
roots. 

But it is rarely required to sow seed for perennial plants,— 
they multiply so vigorously and quickly of themselves, by offsets ; 
and cuttings may be made of the flower stalks in May and June 
in profusion. 

The double Scarlet lychnis, and those plants which rise with 
firm flower stems, make excellent cuttings, and grow freely when 
planted in moist weather. Double Rockets, Lychnidea, and many 
others, succeed well. 

Carnation and pink seedlings must be taken great care of. 
They will be ready to plant out about the middle of June, and as 
innumerable varieties spring from sowing seed, they should be 
planted carefully in a bed by themselves six inches asunder, and 
they will flower the following year, when you can choose the 



ON LAYING OUT. 



29 



colors you most approve. Carnations properly rank under the 
head of biennials ; but pinks are strictly perennial plants, and 
much has been written upon this hardy and beautiful flower. It 
comes originally from a temperate climate, therefore the pink 
loves shade : the fervid sunbeams cause its flowers to languish and 
droop. You may give them an eastern aspect. 

Be careful to watch pinks when they are budding, and do not 
allow two buds to grow side by side. Pinch off the smaller bud, 
which would only weaken its companion. Keep the plants free 
from decayed leaves, and gently stir the earth round them occa- 
sionally with your small trowel. This operation refreshes them. 
Stake them neatly, that they may not fall prostrate after rain. 

If you wish to preserve any particular pink, let it grow in a 
pot, or upon a raised platform, that it may be placed beyond the 
reach of hares, rabbits, or poultry, and be more easily sheltered 
from long and severe frost or rains in winter, and from the dry 
heats in summer, either of which destroys the beauty of the 
flower. The pots can be sunk in the ground in fine weather. Do 
not hide your pinks among larger flowers : let them be distinctly 
seen. If you water pinks too much, their roots become rotten ; 
and if you suffer them to be too dry, they become diseased. Be- 
ware of extremes. The best rule is to keep them just moist. 
A fine pink should not have sharp-pointed flower leaves ; they 
should be round and even at their edges, and the colors should be 
well defined, not running one into the other. The flower should 
be large ; it should possess a great many leaves, and form a sort 
of dome. Piping and slipping, is the most expeditious mode of 
propagating plants from any selected pink. 

Pansies, violets, &c, are very easily propagated by parting the 
roots when the flowers are past. Pansies are very beautiful 
flowers ; and cuttings of their young shoots will grow very freely 
if kept moist and shaded for some little time. By refreshing the 



30 



ladies' flower gardener. 



soil every year, you insure large flowers. Pansies and violets 
bloom early in the spring. 

Hepaticas must be parted like violets. They appear so very 
early in the year that no garden should exist without these gay 
and modest flowers. The leaves appear after the flower has past 
away. 

The Polyanthus blooms among the early tribe. In planting 
this flower, be careful to insert the roots deep in the soil, so that 
the leaves may rest upon it, for the roots are produced high upon 
the stem, and those roots must be enabled to shoot into the soil. 
The polyanthus, like almost every other flower, loves a good soil, 
with a mixture of sand. 

In dividing these fibrous-rooted perennial plants, take only the 
strong offsets, with plenty of fibers attached to them. 

Polyanthuses, auriculas, double daisies, double camomile, Lon- 
don pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses, gentianella, &c, 
succeed well, taken up and divided in September, for they will 
all have done flowering by that time. Indeed, all perennial 
fibrous-rooted plants may be taken up in October to have their 
roots parted, and the soil refreshed round them. 

Peonies, and all knob-rooted plants, should be taken up in 
October to part their roots and transplant them to their intended 
positions. 

The saxifrage has very small roots, which are apt to be lost in 
borders if not very carefully looked after. Like the anemone, 
&c, sift the earth well for them. 

Dahlias require a word or two upon their culture. They love 
sand, therefore allow them plenty of it, but do not put manure 
to their roots, which throws them into luxuriant leaf and stem, 
to the deterioration of the flower. Peat mould is good, if you 
can obtain it, to mix with the sand, as it assists the flower in de- 
veloping stripes and spots. Train each plant upright, upon one 



ON LAYING OUT. 



31 



stem only, and give it a strong stake to support its weight, which 
soon succumbs under gusts of wind. Plant them in open and 
airy places. When the stems become black, take them up, sepa- 
rate the roots, and plunge them into a box of ashes, barley chaff, 
or sand, to protect them through the winter. Plant them out in 
May. 

Dahlias grow from cuttings, which require care and a hot-bed 
to do well, but they multiply themselves very sufficiently without 
that trouble. 

It is a great perfection to see every tall plant in a flower-garden 
well staked, and trimmed from dead straggling shoots. Let no 
branches trail upon the border, but, as in the ease of Chrysan- 
themums, cut away the lowest branches or shoots, that each 
plant may stand erect and neat in its order, without intermed- 
dling in its neighbor's concerns. There will be plenty of em- 
ployment all through the summer in watching the growth of 
your plants, in cutting away decayed stems, and trimming off 
dead leaves. Let nothing remain in the flower's way after the 
brightness of its bloom has past by : cut off the drooping flower 
before it runs to seed, which only tends to weaken the other 
flowers, and leave only the finest flower to produce seed on each 
plant. 

Perennials grow remarkably fine always in newly turned-up 
ground, but they gradually degenerate if they are allowed to re- 
main above two years without replacing the substance they have 
exhausted in the soil. Add every year to that substance, by 
liberal supplies from the compost heap. 

Be careful to multiply your supply of jasmines, honeysuckles, 
&c, by cuttings in their due season. 

I subjoin a list of the hardier sorts of fibrous rooted Perennials, 
eligible to adorn a garden, from which my readers may stock 
their borders. 



32 



ladies' flower gardener. 



LIST OF HARDY PERENNIALS. 



Aster, or Starwort 
Large blue Alpine 
Common Starwort, or Michaelmas 

Daisy- 
Early Pyrenean 
Blue Italian Starwort 
Catesby's Starwort 
Dwarf narrow-leaved Starwort 
Midsummer Starwort 
Autumnal white Starwort, with 

broad leaves 
Tripolian Starwort 
Divaricated-branched 
Virginian Starwort, with spiked 

blue flowers 
Early blue Starwort 
Rose Starwort 

Latest Starwort, large blue flowers 
New England Starwort 
Red-flowering 
Apocynum, Dogsbane 
Red-flowering 
Orange-colored 
Syrian 

Arum, Italian large-veined leaf 
Asdepias, Swallow-wort 

White 

Yellow 
Astragalus, Milk-vetch 
Alysson, White 

bellow 

Violet 
Borage, the Eastern 
Bachelor'' s Button 

Double red 

Double white 
Double Ragged Robin 
Campanula, or Bell-flower 

Double blue 

Double white 

Double blue, and white nettle- 
leaved 
Caltha, double-flowered 

Marigold 
Cassia of Maryland 
Pinks, double pheasant's eye 

Dobson 

Deptford 

Cob white 



| Red cob 
' White stock 

Damask 

Mountain 

Matted 

Old man's head 
Painted lady 

Clove pink, and many other 
varieties 
Stock July -flower, the Brompton 
Double scarlet Brompton 
Single scarlet 
Purple 

White Brompton 

Queen stock 

Purple double 

Striped double 

Single of each sort 

Twickenham stock 
Lichnidea, early blue 

Spotted-stalked, with purple spikes 
of flowers 

Virginia, with large umbels 

Low trailing purple 

Carolina, with stiff shining leaves, 
and deeper purple flowers 
Cyanus, broad-leaved 

Narrow-leaved 
Lychnis, or Campion 

Single scarlet lychnis 

Double scarlet lychnis 

Catchfly, double flowers 
Hepaticas, single white 

Single blue 

Single red 

Double red 

Double blue 
Lineria, toad flax 

Purple 

Yellow 
Bee Larkspur 
Fraxinclla, white 

Red 

Gentiania, great yellow 
Gentianclla, blue 
Glubularia. blue daisy 
Fox-qlove, red 

White 

Iron-colored 



ON LAYING OUT. 



33 



Perennial Sun-flower 

Double yellow, and several other 
species. 
Cyclamen, red 

While 
Goldy Locks 
Chelone, white 

Red 

Lily of the Valley, common 

Double-flowering 
Solomon's Seal, single 

Double 
Filapendula, or Dropwort 
Columbines, common blue 

Double red 

Double white 

Double striped 

Starry, double and single 

Early-flowering Canada 
Thalictrum, feathered columbines 
Pulsatilla, blue Pasque flower 
Orobus, bitter vetch 
Saxifrage, double white 

Thick-leaved 

Purple 
Veronica, upright blue 

Dwarf blue 

Hungarian 

Blush 

Golden Rod, many species 
Valerian, red garden Valerian 

White garden 
Rudbekia, American sun-flower 

Dwarf Virginia, with large yellow 
flowers 

Dwarf Carolina, with narrow red 
reflexed petals and purple florets 

Virginia, with yellow rays and red 
florets 

Tall yellow, with purple stalks 

and heart-shaped leaves 
Taller, with yellow flowers and 

large five-lobed leaves, and those 

on the stalks single 
Tallest yellow, with narrower 

leaves, which are all of five 

lobes 

Pulmonuria, Lungwort 
Common 
American 

2* 



Monarda, purple 
Scarlet 

Ephemeron, Spider-wort, or flowers 
of a day 
White 
Blue 

Jacca, American knapweed 
Primrose, double yellow 

Double scarlet 

White 

Polyanthus, many varieties 
Auriculas, many varieties 
Violets, double blue 

Double white 

Double red 

Russian 

Banksia 
Violet, the Major 
London-pride, or None-so-pretty 
Day-lily, red 

Yellow 
Fumitory, the yellow 

White 

Bulbous-rooted 
American forked 
Aconite, Monk's-hood, or Wolf 's-bane 
Blue Monk's-hood 
Yellow 
White 

Wholesome Wolf's-bane 
Winter Aconite 
Hellebore, or Bear's-foot 

Common black hellebore 

Green-flowered 
White Hellebore 
Christmas Rose 
Geranium, Crane's-bill 

Bloody Crane's-bill 

Blue 

Roman 

Bladder-cupped 
Daisies, common double red garden 
daisy 
White 

Double variegated 

Cock's-comb daisies, white and red 

Hen and chicken, white and red 
Dahlias, many varieties 
Peony, double red 

Double white 



34 



ladies' flow: 



EE GARDENER. 



Double purple 

Male, with large single flowers 
Sweet-smelling Portugal 
Double rose-colored 
Silphium, bastard Chrysanthemum 
Iris, Fleur-de-lis, or flags 
The German violet-colored 
Variegated, or Hungarian, purple 

and yellow 
Chalcedonian iris 
Greater Dalmatian iris 
There are several other varieties 

of Irises, all very hardy and very 

beautiful plants 
Cardinal Flowers, scarlet 
Blue 

Rocket, double white 
Balm of Gilead, sweet-scented ; must 
be sheltered in winter 



Everlasting Pea 
Eupatorium, several varieties 
Eryngo, blue 
White 

Mountain, purple and violet 
There are some other varieties 
Snap Dragon, or Calf 's-snout 
Red 
White 

Variegated , 
Moth Mullein 
Angelica 

JLsphodclus, King's-spear 

Lupins, perennial, blue-flowered 

Oncnis, Rest-har 
Large yellow-flowered 

Tradescantia, or Virginia Spider- 
wort 



The Saxifrage is propagated by cuttings and offsets, which the 
roots produce abundantly. Take the offsets and plant them out 
in August. The double white saxifrage is a beautiful flower, and 
blooms early in the spring. The pyramidal saxifrage is a very 
handsome decorative flower, but it must be planted in little clumps 
to make a showy appearance. 

October is the busy month for transplanting and removing the 
offsets of all perennial and biennial plants. In this month every 
flower of summer has passed away, and the garden is free to 
receive all new arrangements in its future dispositions. Golden 
rod, Michaelmas daisies, everlasting sun-flower, and other branch- 
ing plants, will require taking up every four years, to part the 
main root into separate plants, and replace them in the ground 
again. Peonies, lilies of the valley, fraxinellas, monk's-hood, flag- 
leaved irises, &c, must be increased or removed when required. 
All this is most effectually done in October. 

In the same month, finish all that is to be effected among the 
perennial tribe. Campanulas, lychnises, polyanthuses, violets, 
aconites, cyclamens, gentianella, yellow gentian, double daisies, 



ON LAYING OUT. 



35 



hepaticas, saxifrage, &c, must be attended to, and propagated, 
by dividing the roots, before October closes. November is the 
season of fogs and severe frosts : if a lady is prudent, she will 
perform all these needful operations in October, and November 
will have no alarms for her. 

All the double-flowering plants, such as double sweet-william, 
double rockets, double scarlet lychnis, &c, should be placed in 
sheltered situations in October, to weather out the storms of 
winter. Double flowers are very handsome, and deserve a little 
care. 

The most charming little perennial flower which can adorn a 
lady's garden is the scarlet verbena, but it is very difficult to pre- 
serve through the winter. Its beauty, however, repays the care 
which may be bestowed upon it. This tender plant — the only 
really tender root which I admit into my work — is not only de- 
sirable from its fine, full scarlet blossoms, but it blooms from 
April to November. The scarlet verbena loves a rich, light, dry 
border or bed, in a sunny situation ; they delight also in rock- 
work, where they have been known to exist through the winter. 
Plant the roots about six inches apart in. the middle of April, and 
keep pegging down the shoots as they throw themselves along 
the bed. A profusion of flowers and plants are produced by this 
means. A bed or border sloping to the south is the best situa- 
tion for the scarlet verbena. 



36 



ladies' flower gardener. 



CHAPTER IV 

BULBS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS — PERENNIALS. 

SHALL give the bulbous and tuberous-rooted flowers a chap- 
ter to themselves. They are the earliest treasures of the 
flower-garden, and deserve especial notice. There was a pe- 
riod when two hundred pounds was offered for a hyacinth root, and 
even the enormous sum of six hundred pounds was given for a Sem- 
per Augustus tulip, by the Dutch tulip fanciers. But though a few 
florists are still particularly nice with respect to their bulbs, the 
time is past for paying such splendid prices ; and such an inex- 
haustible variety offer themselves to our notice now, that we are 
somewhat puzzled in making a choice collection. Seed produces 
immense numbers yearly, and an infinite variety of new colors in 
each species. The florist is lost in admiration of the magnificent 
blooms which meet the eye in every flower-garden which is care- 
fully attended to. 

Bulbs love a mixture of garden soil and sand, well mixed, and 
dug about two spades deep to lighten it. Break the mould fine, 
and rake the surface even. Plant the bulbs four inches deep, 
and let them be six inches apart, placing the bulb with care into 
the dibbled hole, and pressing the earth gently round each. All 
bulbs should be replanted in September, and taken out of the 
ground when they have done flowering. When the leaves and 
stems decay, dig them neatly up, in dry weather, with your 
garden fork ; take the offsets carefully from the main root ; spread 
them out to dry on a mat, and put them in a cool dry place to 
plant again in September. 



TRANSPLANTING BULBS. 



37 



The common bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Crocuses, &c, may be 
left two or three years untouched ; but at the end of that period 
take them up, to separate the offsets and small roots from the 
mother plants. You can replant them immediately, taking care 
to thin the clumps, and separate each root six inches from its 
neighbor, that they may rise healthy, and throw out fine blooms. 

Narcissuses, Jonquils, and Irises, may also remain two years 
untouched ; but if annually taken up, they Tvill flower finer, and 
for these reasons. 

By taking up your bulbs as soon as their leaves and stems de- 
cay, it not only allows you to separate the offsets, which weaken 
the parent bulb, but it prevents their receiving any damage from 
long drought, or the equally destructive moisture of heavy rains, 
which would set them growing again before their time, and ex- 
haust them. The two or three months in which they are laid by 
contributes to their strength, by allowing them that period of 
complete rest. 

The autumn-flowering bulbs, such as the Oolchicums, the Au- 
tumnal Crocus, the Yellow Autumnal Narcissus, &c, should be 
taken up in May or early in June, when they are at rest. Trans- 
plant them now, if you wish to remove them ; part the offsets, 
and plant them six inches apart. If you keep them out of the 
ground, put them in a dry, shady place, till the middle of July 
or August, when you must plant them again, to blow in the au- 
tumnc 

Be careful to take up bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. If 
they are incautiously left in the ground beyond that period, they 
begin to form the bud for the next year's flowers ; and the check 
of a removal would injure them. They might produce flowers 
in due time, but they would be weakly. 

The little offsets will not flower for a year or two. They may 



38 



ladies' flower gardener. 



be consigned to a nursery-bed to remain for that time, in order to 
swell and strengthen by themselves. 

If you wish to procure new varieties from seed, it must be 
sown in August. The healthiest flower-stalk should be chosen, 
and deposited in pots or boxes of fine light earth, for the con- 
venience of removing under shelter in wet or frost. Keep the 
pots or boxes in the shade during the heats, but, as the cold 
weather advances, remove them to a warm sheltered spo't. Litter 
will shelter them from the frost, if you cannot command any 
other covering. The plants will appear early the following May : 
they must be kept very clear from weeds, and be moderately 
watered in dry weather. These seedlings must be transplanted 
every summer to be thinned, and placed further apart from each 
other till they blow, when they may be removed into the flower- 
beds. 

This method is troublesome, and requires patience. Tulip 
seedlings are seven years before they flower, and a lady may find 
her patience severely tried in waiting for their blooms. Seven 
years is a large portion of human life. If you can persevere, 
however, you will be rewarded by beautiful varieties of new colors 
and stripes. 

Fine tulips should have six leaves, three on the outside and 
three on the inside, and the former should be broader than the 
latter. The stripes upon the tulip should also be defined and dis- 
tinct, not mixing with the ground tints. 

Hyacinth seedlings are four years before they flower ; this is 
not so harassing a period as the Tulip requires ; but every plea- 
sure has its counterbalance. If you will have fine flowers, you 
must wait for them. These bulbs love a sunny situation. 

The Orchis tribe prefer a moist ground and a northern aspect. 
Columella says, that when orchis bulbs are sown in autumn, they 
germinate and bear flowers in April. 



BULBOUS PLANTS. 



39 



The Colchicums or narcissus are hardy bulbs, and will grow in 
any sort of ground ; only, the better the soil is, the finer they 
will flower. 

The Guernsey Lily and Belladonna will not thrive in the open 
ground, therefore it is needless to speak of those very splendid 
flowers. 

The Lily of the Valley, though scarcely to be classed among 
the lily tribe, is a beautiful flower, and as fragrant as it is lovely. 
They must be multiplied by dividing the roots, which should be 
parted with a knife, as they are very intricate : do this in Decem- 
ber. Plant them three inches deep in the ground, and disturb 
them as little as you can help, as they do not like to be often 
moved. They are larger in their flowers when grown in the 
shade, but they are sweeter in perfume in the sun's full rays. 
Thin broad leaves are sufficient shelter to the flowers. 

All bulbs love salt : be careful, therefore, to throw a portion 
of common salt or brine upon your compost heap. My cousin, 
Cuthbert W. Johnson, Esq., in his " Observations on the Em- 
ployment of Salt," quotes a passage in a letter addressed to him 
by Mr. Thomas Hogg, the eminent florist, upon the advantages 
of salt in the cultivation of flowers. I will transcribe it here : — 

"From the few experiments that I have tried with salt as a garden ma- 
nure, I am fully prepared to bear testimony to its usefulness. In a treatise 
upon flowers, published about six years since, I remarked, that the applica- 
tion of salt, and its utility as a manure, was yet imperfectly understood. It 
is a* matter of uncertainty, whether it acts directly as a manure, or only as a 
kind of spice or seasoning, thereby rendering the soil a more palatable food 
for plants. 

" The idea that first suggested itself to my mind, arose from contemplating 
the successful culture of hyacinths in Holland. This root, though not in- 
digenous to the country, may be said to be completely naturalized in the 
neighborhood of Haerlem, where it grows luxuriantly in a deep, sandy, allu- 
vial soil : yet one great cause of its free gro vth, I considered, was owing to 
the saline atmosphere : this induced me to mix salt in the compost ; and I 



40 



ladies' flower gardener. 



am satisfied that no hyacinths will grow well at a distance from the sea 
without it. I am also of opinion, that the numerous bulbous tribe of Amaryl- 
lisses, especially those from the Cape of Good Hope ; Ixias, Aliums, which 
include Onions, Garlic, Shalots, &c, Anemones, various species of the Lily, 
Antholyza, Colchicum, Crinum, Cyclamens, Narcissus, Iris, Gladiolus, Ran- 
unculus, Scilla, and many others, should either have salt or sea-sand in the 
mould used for them. 

" I invariably use salt as an ingredient in my compost for carnations ; a 
plant which, like wheat, requires substantial soil, and all the strength and 
heat of the summer, to bring it to perfection ; and I believe I might say, 
without boasting, that few excel me in blooming that flower." 

Colcliicums, the Autumnal Narcissus, Amaryllis, and the Au- 
tumn Crocus, should be planted in August, to blow in September 
and October. 

Replant all the bulbous tribe by the end of October, at the 
latest. Choose a mild, dry day to put them in the ground, and 
let each bulb be six or nine inches distant from its companion. 
All bulbs become weak by being placed too closely together, the 
soil becoming soon exhausted. 

Bulbs of the more choice varieties are better attended to if 
they can be placed in beds or compartments by themselves ; for 
they are more easily sheltered from frost and rain when in a body. 
The eye, also, is more delighted by the beautiful variety en masse. 
Their favorite soil, too, can. be composed and preserved for them 
more exclusively, unexhausted by the roots of larger plants around 
them. Some of the commoner sorts can be planted out in 
patches, to add to the gay appearance of the borders, among "the 
spring flowers. 

Martagons, orange lilies, and bulbs, of tall growth, should 
never be planted among the smaller tribe ; their large bulbs 
would exhaust the soil, and weaken the smaller flowers. They 
look very handsome in borders and plots, placed near, or in, their 
center. 



TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 



41 



LIST OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED FLOWERS. 



Amaryllis, comprising the autumnal 
yellow Narcissus 
Spring ditto 
Crocus vernus, or spring-flowering 
crocus 
Common yellow 
Large yellow 
Yellow, with black stripes 
White 

White, with blue stripes 
Blue, with white stripes 
Deep blue 
Light blue 

White, with purple bottom 
Scotch, or black and white striped 
Cream-colored 
Autumnal flowering Crocus, of the 

following varieties : — 
True saffron crocus, with bluish 

flower, and golden stigma, which 

is the saffron 
Common autumnal crocus, with 

deep blue flowers 
With light blue flowers 
Many-flowered 
Snoivdrop, the small spring flowering 
Common single 
Double 

Leucojum, or great summer snowdrop 
Great summer snowdrop with an- 
gular stalk : a foot high, and 
two or three flowers in each 
sheath 

Taller great snowdrop, with many 
flowers 

Ornithogalum, or Star of Bethlehem 
Great white pyramidal, with nar- 
row leaves 
White, with broadsword-shaped 

leaves spreading on the ground 
Yellow 

Pyrenean, with whitish green 
flowers 

Star of Naples, with hanging 
flowers 

Umbellated, producing its flowers 
in umbels, or spreading bunches, 
at the top of the stalk 

Low yellow umbellated 



Erythronium, dens canis, or dog's 
tooth 

Round-leaved, with red flowers 

Same, w T ith white flowers 

The same, yellow 

Long narrow-leaved, with purple 

and with white flowers 
Grape hyacinth 
Purple 
Blue 
White 

Musk hyacinth 

White 

Ash-colored 

Blue feathered hyacinth 
Purple 

Musky, or sweet-scented, with full 
purple flowers 

The same, w T ith large purple and 
yellow flowers 

Great African Muscaria, with sul- 
phur-colored flower 
Fritillaria checkered tulip 

Early purple, variegated, or check- 
ered with white 

Black, checkered with yellow spots 

Yellow, checkered with purple 

Dark purple, with yellow spots, 
and flowers growing in an um- 
bel 

Persian lily, with tall stalks, and 

dark purple flowers growing in 

a pyramid 
Branching Persian lily 
Corona Imperialis, crown imperial, a 

species of Fritillaria 
Common red 
Common yellow 
Yellow-striped 
Sulphur-colored 
Large-flowering 
Double of each variety 
Crown upon crown, or with two 

whorls of flowers 
Triple crown upon crown, or with 

three tiers of flowers one above 

another 
Gold-striped leaved 
Silver-striped leaved 



42 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Tulip i early dwarf tulip 

Tall, or most common tulip 

Early, yellow and red striped 

White and red striped 

White and purple striped 

White and rose striped 

Tall, or late-flowering, with white 
bottoms, striped with brown 

White bottoms, striped with violet 
or black brown 

White bottoms, striped with red 
or vermilion 

Yellow bottoms, striped with dif- 
ferent colors, called Bizarres 
Double Tulip, yellow and red 

White and red 
Gladiolus, corn flag, or sword lily, 
common, with sword-shaped 
leaves, and a reddish purple 
flower ranged on one side of the 
stalk 

The same, with white flowers 

Italian with reddish flowers ranged 
on both sides of the stalk 

The same, with white flowers 

Great red of Byzantium 

Narrow grassy-leaved, and a flesh- 
colored flower, with channeled, 
long, narrow, four- angled leaves, 
and two bell-shaped flowers on 
the stalk 

Great Indian 
Anemone, wood anemone, with blue 
flowers 

White flowers 

Red flowers 

Double white 
Garden Double Anemone, with crim- 
son flowers 

Purple 

Red 

Blue 

White 

Red and white striped 
Red, white, and purple 
Rose and white 
Blue, striped with white 
Ranunculus, Turkey, with a single 

stalk, and large double blood- 

r^d flower 
Yellow-llowered 



Persian, with branching stalk, and 
large double flowers of innumer- 
able varieties, of which there are 

Very double flowers 

Semi, or half double 

(The double are most beautiful, 
propagated by offsets) 
Pancratium, sea daffodil 

Common white sea Narcissus, with 
many flowers in a sheath, and 
tongue-shaped leaves 

Sclavonian, w T ith taller stems and 
many white flowers, and sword- 
shaped leaves 

Broad-leaved American, with large 
white flowers, eight or ten in a 
sheath 

Mexican, with two flowers 

Ceylon, with one flower 
Moly {Allium), species of garlic pro- 
ducing flowers 

Broad-leaved yellow 

Great broad-leaved, with lily 
flowers 

Broad-leaved, with white flowers 

in large round umbels 
Smaller white umbellated 
Purple 
Rose-colored 
Fumaria bulbosa, or bulbous-rooted 

fumitory 
Greater purple 
Hollow-rooted 

American, with a forked flower 
Narcissus, or daffodil, common double 
yellow daffodil 

Single yellow, with the middle cup 
as long as the petals 

White, with yellow cups 

Double, with several cups, one 
within another 

Common white narcissus, with 
single flowers 

Double white narcissus 

Incomparable, or great nonsuch, 
with double flowers 

With single flowers 

Hoop petticoat narcissus, or rush- 
leaved daffodil, with the middle 
cup larger than the petals, and 
very broad at the brim 



TUBEKOUS-KOOTED FLOWEES. 



43 



Daffodil, with white reflexed pe- 
tals, and golden cups 
White daffodil, with purple cups 
Polyanthus Narcissus, having many 
small flowers on a stalk, from 
the same sheath. Of this are 
the following varieties : — 
White, with white cups 
Yellow, with yellow cups 
White, with yellow cups 
White, with orange cups 
White, with sulphur-colored cups 
Yellow, with orange cups 
Yellow, with sulphur-colored cups 
With several intermediate varie- 
ties 

Autumnal narcissus 
Jonquil, common single 

Large single 

Common double 

Double, with large round roots 
Lilium, the lily, common white lily 

With spotted or striped flowers 

With double flowers 

With striped leaves 

White lily, with hanging or pen- 
dent flowers 

Common orange lily, with large 
single flowers 

With double flowers 

With striped leaves 

Fiery, bulb-bearing lily, producing 
bulbs at the joints of the stalks 

Common narrow-leaved 

Great broad-leaved 

Many-flowered 

Hoary 

Martagon lily, sometimes called 
Turk's cap, from the reflexed 
position of their flower-leaves. 
There are many varieties, and 
which differ from the other sorts 
of lilies in having the petals of 
their flowers reflexed, or turned 
backward. The varieties are — 

Common red martagon, with very 
narrow sparsed leaves, or such 
as grow without order all over 
the flower-stalk 

Double martagon 

White 



Double white 
White spotted 

Scarlet, with broad sparsed leaves 
Bright red, many-flowered, or pom- 
pony, with short, grassy, sparsed 
leaves 

Reddish hairy martagon, with 

leaves growing in whorls round 

the stalk 
Great yellow, with pyramidal 

flowers, spotted 
Purple, with dark spots, and broad 

leaves in whorls round the stalk, 

or most common Turk's-cap 
White spotted Turk's-cap 
Canada martagon, with yellowish 

large flowers spotted, and leaves 

in whorls 
Campscatense martagon, with 

erect bell -shaped flowers 
Philadelphia martagon, with two 

erect bright purple flowers 
Squills, sea onion, or lily hyacinth, 

common lily hyacinth, with a 

lily root and blue flower 
Peruvian, or broad-leaved hyacinth 

of Peru, with blue flowers 
With white flcwers 
Early white starry hyacinth 
Blue 

Autumnal starry hyacinth 
Larger starry blue hyacinth of By- 
zantium 
Purple star flower of Peru 
Italian blue-spiked star-flower 
Asphodel lily, African blue, with a 

tuberous root 
Tuberose, or Indian tuberous hyacinth. 
It produces a small stem three 
or four feet high, adorned with 
many white flowers of great fra- 
grance. 
The varieties are,— 
Fine double tuberose 
Single tuberose 
Small-fiowered 
Striped-leaved 
Iris bulbosa, or bulbous Iris, Persian, 
with three erect blue petals 
called standards, and three re- 
flexed petals called falls, which 



ladies' flower gardener. 



are variegated, called Persian 
bulbous iris, with a variegated 
flower 

Common narrow-leaved bulbous 

iris, with a blue flower 
White 
Yellow 

Blue, with white falls 

Blue, with yellow falls 

Greater broad-leaved bulbous iris, 

with a deep blue flower 
Bright purple 
Deep purple 
Variegated 

Great, with broact and almost plain 
or flat leaves, with blue flowers 
Purple 

Of the above there are many in- 
termediate varieties 

Hyacinth, eastern, with large flowers. 
Of these there are many varie- 
ties, and of which there are in- 
numerable intermediate shades 
or tints of color 

Of double sorts there are, — 
Blues 

Purple blues 
Agatha blues 
Whites 

Whites, with yellow eyes 

Whites, with red eyes 

Whites, with violet or purple 

eyes 

Whites, with rose-colored eyes j 
Whites, with scarlet eyes 
Reds 

Incarnate, flesh or rose-colored | 
Of single sorts there are, — 

Blues, of various shades, as 

above 
Whites 
Reds 

Rose-colored 

With many intermediate shades 
or varieties 
{Muscaria) . or musk hyacinth 
Ash-colored 
White 

Obsolete purple 
Greater yellow African 
Grape hyacinth 



Purple 
Blue 
White 
Red 

Monstrous flowering, or blue-fea- 
thered hyacinth 
Comosed, or tufted purple hyacinth 
Amethystine blue hyacinth 
Nodding, spiked, red hyacinth 
Non-script small English hyacinth, 
or harebells, of the following 
varieties : — 
Common blue flowers arranged on 

one side of the stalk 
White 

Bell-shaped blue hyacinth, with 
flowers on every side of the 
stalk 

Bell-shaped peach-colored, with 

flowers on one side of the stalk 
These are very hardy, propagating 

by offsets 
Hyacinth, with a pale purple 

flower 
Colchicums in variety 
Leontice, lion's leaf, largest yellow, 

with single foot-stalks to the 

leaves 

Smaller pale yellow, with branched 
foot-stalks to the leaves 
Cyclamen, sow-bread, European, or 
common autumn-flowering, with 
a purple flower, and angular 
heart-shaped leaves 
The same, with a black flower 
The same, with white flowers 
Red spring-flowering, with heart- 
shaped leaves, marbled with 
white 

Entire white, sweet-smelling 
Purple winter-flowering, with 

plain or circular shining green 

leaves 

Purple round-leaved autumn-flow- 
ering 

Small, or anemone-rooted, with 
flesh-colored flowers appearing 
in autumn : these plants have 
large, round, solid roots ; the 
flowers and leaves rise immedi- 
ately from the root 



FIBROUS-BOOTED FLOWERS. 



45 



Corona Regalis, or royal crown ; re- I Aconite, the winter 
quires shelter in the winter I Sisyrinchium 

AURICULA, RANUNCULUS, ANEMONE. 

These early and beautiful flowers deserve peculiar notice, for 
no garden looks well without them, and their bright tints delight 
the eye and mind. The commonest kinds are handsome and use- 
ful in small clumps, and a little care and trouble will raise superb 
varieties. 

The Auricula loves a soil composed of kitchen-garden mould, 
sand, and cow-dung, well mixed together ; they also like a cool 
situation. The seed should be sown in September, and when 
sown give it a gentle watering. By sowing the seed in pots or 
boxes, you can remove them from heavy rains, &c, without 
trouble, and shelter them in the outhouses or tool-house. The 
seed seldom appears under six months, and it has been sometimes 
a twelvemonth producing itself, therefore be not in despair, but 
remain patient ; these freaks of nature cannot be accounted for. 
When they flower, you must single out the plants which bear 
the finest and most choice blooms, and transplant them into pots 
filled with the compost above described. The common sorts 
may be planted in the borders, to remain out and shift for them- 
selves. By keeping the fine auriculas in pots, you preserve them 
through the winter easily, for heavy rains and cutting winds do 
them harm. You can sink them in their pots during summer in 
the flower-beds, but let them be sheltered during the winter, if 
you wish to preserve the blooms uninjured. 

Auriculas multiply also by suckers, which grow on their roots. 
Take off these in February, and plunge them into pots of the 
mould they like best, to root freely. They will do so in two 
months. Auriculas should not be too much watered, as it makes 
them look sickly, and the leaves become yellow. When you pot 



46 



ladies' flower gardener. 



the auriculas, sink them up to their leaves in the soil, but do not 
press the mould round the plant, as the flowers bloom finest when 
the roots touch the sides of the flower pot. 

The auricula is esteemed fine that has a low stem, a stalk pro- 
portioned to the flower, the eye s well opened, and always dry. 
The glossy, the velvet, and the streaked auriculas are the most 
admired. The stalk should be tlecked with many flower-bells, to 
be handsome and healthy. 

Take care to pull off all dead leaves round the plant at all 
times, that it may appear neat and clean. Neatness is favorable 
to its perfect growth, as well as decorating it to the eye. 

The Ranunculus does not like being mixed up with other 
flowers, and from this " aristocratic principle " it is always planted 
in separate knots. 

This flower loves sun and warmth. The root must be planted 
in September, to bloom early in the summer, and it delights in 
a rich, moist soil, well dug, and raked soft and fine. When you 
plant them in beds or pots, they must be sunk two inches deep, 
and dibble the hole with a round, not pointed, dibble. Place the 
roots four or five inches apart, in the warmest situation in your 
garden. By planting ranunculuses in pots, you can more easily 
place them in warm situations, and withdraw them from heavy 
rains. The more room you give these roots the finer they will 
grow and blow. If your plots will allow of so doing, let the 
roots be planted six or seven inches apart. The flowers will 
repay your care. When ranunculuses in pots have flowered, re- 
move them from the August rains, or take up the roots, to re- 
plant in September. 

The Ranunculus with the double white flower must not be 
taken up until September, when it should be taken up quickly ? 
its roots parted, and replanted immediately. 



ANEMONES* 



47 



The Yellow Ranunculus with the rue leaf, prefers being potted 
to being planted in beds. 

The Ranunculus propagates by seed as well as offsets. Sow 
the seed as you do that of the auricula. 

The most admired ranunculuses are the white, the golden 
yellow, the pale yellow, the citron-colored, and the brown red, 
The red is the least esteemed. The yellow ranunculus speckled 
with red, is handsome, — also the rose-color with white inside. 

Great varieties are obtained by seed. 

The Anemones love a light soil, composed of kitchen-garden 
mould, and sand, and leaf mould, well mixed, and sifted fine. It 
should, if possible, be composed a year before it is used; the 
lighter it is the better for anemones. 

The seed should be sown in September. The single flowers 
alone bear seed, which is fit to gather when it appears ready to 
fly away with the first gust of wind. As soon as the seed is 
lodged, and raked smoothly into its fine, light bed, strew the bed 
over with straw or matting, and give it a good watering. In 
three weeks the seed will begin to rise, when the straw may be 
removed. The young plants will flower in the following April. 

When the roots are to be planted in September, sink them 
about three inches deep, and six inches apart, that they may 
come up strong and flower well. Make a hole in the ground for 
them with your finger, and set them upon the broadest side, 
with the slit downwards, 

Those anemones planted in September will flower in March 
and April, and the roots planted in May flower in autumn, but 
the flowers are never so fine. 

When anemones have done flowering, it requires some care in 
taking up the roots, in order to part and put them by till the 
time for replanting arrives. The roots or flaps are so small and 
difficult to distinguish, that the x earth should be taken up and 



48 



LADIES 5 flower gardener. 



laid upon a sieve to be sifted, when the flaps will alone remain 
behind, or the earth may be deposited upon an open newspaper 
or cloth, and well rubbed with the hand to feel for the minute 
dark-colored flaps, which may easily escape observation. 

The beauty of this flower consists in its thickness and roundness, 
especially when the great leaves are a little above the thickness 
of the tuft. 

Choose your seed from the finest single anemone, with a broad, 
round leaf. 

The remaining tuberous-rooted flowers are very hardy. 

BIENNIALS. 

Biennial flowers, as the name implies, are plants thafexist 
only two years. They are propagated by seed, rising the first 
year, and flowering the second. If they continue another year, 
they are sickly and languid. The double biennials may be con- 
tinued by cuttings and slips of the tops, as well as by layers and 
pipings, though the parent flower dies — but they are not so fine. 
A lady should have a space of ground allotted to biennial seed- 
lings, so that a fresh succession of plants may be ready to supply 
the place of those which die away. The seeds should be sown 
every spring in light, well-dug earth ; the young plants should 
be kept very clean, and some inches apart from each other ; and 
they must be finally transplanted in autumn into the beds where 
they are intended to remain. 

But there is a great uncertainty as to raising the double flowers ; 
therefore it is better to make sure of those you approve by per- 
petuating them as long as you can, by any root offsets they may 
throw off, — by pipings, cuttings, or by layers, as before noticed. 
I subjoin a list of the principal and useful biennials. 



HARDY BIENNIALS. 



49 



LIST OF HARDY BIENNIALS. 



Canterbury Bells 

Blue-flowers 

White 

Purple 

Pyramidal 
Carnation. All the varieties, some- 
what biennial-perennial. 
Clary, Purple -topped 

Red-topped 
Colutea, ^Ethiopian 
French Honeysuckle 

Red 

White 
Globe Thistle 

Hollyhocks. Somewhat biennial-per- 
ennial ; all the varieties ; always 
by seed 

Lunaria, Moonwort or Honesty 
Mallow (Tree) 

Red 

Scarlet 

Purple 

Red, white-bordered 
Party-colored 
Variegated 
Painted Lady 
Double of each 

Mule, or Mongrel Sweet-william, 
or Mule Pink 
Tree Mallow (Lavatera arborea) 
Tree Primrose 
Night Stock 



Poppy, Yellow-horned (CheKdonium 

glaucum) 
Rocket, Dame's violet 

Single white 

Double white 

Double purple 

Single purple 
Rose Campion 

Red 

White 
Scabius, double 

Dark purple-flowered 

Dark-red 

White 

Starry purple-flowered 

Starry white 

Jagged-leaved starry 
Stock Gilliflower 

Brompton 

Queen 
. Twickenham 
Sweet-william 

Common upright tall yellow 

Small-flowered 
Wall-flower 

Yellow-flowered 

Bloody 

White 

Double of each 
Petunia 
White 
Lilac 



When you make your seedling-bed or nursery, cover it over 
with straw, or fern, or matting, during frost ; and to prevent the 
birds pecking up the seeds, it is requisite to protect the bed by 
strewing light boughs of thorn bushes over it, or fixing a net 
upon sticks as a covering, till the plants appear. If cats, dogs 
or poultry intrude into the flower garden, it is in vain to hope for 
enjoyment. 

Sow your biennial seeds in March, April, or May. I recom- 
mend May, because the young plants in that month germ and 



50 



ladies' flower gardener. 



vegetate quickly, surely, and without requiring defenses from the 
frost. Plant them out in October, with a ball of earth to each 
root, where they are to remain. „ 

The Stock Gilliflowers in particular, having long, naked roots, 
must be planted out very young, otherwise they do not succeed 
well. 

Honesty is a very early, rich-flowering biennial, which requires 
no care ; they shed their seed, rise, and flower without any assist- 
ance, in profusion. The only trouble is to weed it out of the 
beds, that they may not stand in the way of other flowers. 

Canterbury Bells are handsome flowers, and will bloom a long 
time, if you cut off the bells as they decay. 

The deep crimson Sweet-williams are most esteemed ; though 
every variety looks well. 

Sweet-williams may be increased by layers and cuttings, which 
is the only sure way of securing the sorts you like ; for you may 
sow seed every year, and not one in a thousand will reward you 
by coming up double. 

Carnations are the pride of a garden, and deserve great care 
and attention. The common sorts, which are planted in borders, 
should have a good rich earth about them, and be treated like 
the pink ; but the finer sorts should always be potted, to protect 
and shelter the plant from hares, rabbits, heavy rains, and severe 
frost in the winter. Refresh the top of the pots with new soil in 
June, and keep the plants free from decayed leaves. Gently stir 
the earth round each plant occasionally ; and as plants in pots 
require more water than if placed in the ground, let the carna- 
tions be gently moistened about every other day during dry wea- 
ther. Let the watering take place in the evening ; no flower will 
endure being watered during the heat of a summer's day. Car- 
nations love sand and salt in proper proportions. The brine which 
is deposited upon the compost heap will answer every purpose 



HOLLYHOCKS. 



51 



of salts, (if it be regularly carried out), without adding common 
salt : but let this be particularly attended to. The cook should 
deposit her pickle and brine to good purpose upon the compost 
heap, instead of splashing it down in front of her kitchen door. 

Let each plant be well staked, and neatly tied to its supporter ; 
and do not allow two buds to grow side by side upon the same 
stem, for one will weaken the other. Pinch off the smaller bud. 
Carnations love warmth ; therefore give them a sunny aspect to 
blow in. The seedling plants may be treated like young pinks, 
but this difference must be observed — pinks love shade, and car- 
nations love warmth. A bed of carnations is a beautiful object. 
The pots can always be sunk in a border or bed in fine weather. 
Carnations may be layered, or piped, or slipped for propagation, 

Water your carnations in pots once a week with lime water, if 
they appear drooping, for this proceeds from a worm at the root ; 
but the brine will destroy all insects quickly, when poured upon 
the compost heap. 

In propagating double Wall-flowers, take slips of the young 
shoots of the head : this will perpetuate the double property and 
color of the flower, from which they were slipped. In saving 
seed for wall-flowers, choose the single flowers, which have five 
petals or flower leaves. Double flowers have no seed. 

Water the slips, and keep them shady and moist : they will 
root by September. 

Plant your Hollyhocks in September or October, where they 
are to remain.- Hollyhocks are a noble flower, and they love a 
strong soil. Let a succession of these flower plants be attended 
to in the biennial seed-bed. Keep them some inches apart from 
each other in the seedling-bed, for they form large straggling 
roots. The hollyhock looks well in clumps of three, at a good 
distance apart, in large gardens or shrubberies, but they are 
somewhat too overgrown for smaller parterres. 



52 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Be particular in gathering your seeds on a fine, dry day, and 
put each sort in a separate brown paper bag till you require 
them. The very finest seedlings are, after all, those which spring 
near the mother plant from self-sown seed, therefore, when you 
weed or dig your flower borders, be careful not to disturb any 
seedlings which may have sprung up. They always make strong, 
fine blooming plants. 

Take care of your double-flowering plants in winter. The 
double wall-flower is hardy enough to exist in the borders, but 
the other double biennials deserve to be sheltered, for double 
flowers are very handsome, and heavy rains, snow, or severe frost, 
injures them. Take cuttings every year from them. 

The Night Stock is tolerably hardy if sheltered during the 
frost by ashes or litter. The sweetness after night-fall must 
recommend it to all the lovers of fragrant flowers. 

PROPAGATING BIENNIALS. 

Every young lady must become acquainted with the manner 
of operating upon plants, to preserve the finer sorts, which they 
may wish to perpetuate. Raising from seed is slow, but it pro- 
duces infinite variety. You, however, rarely see the same flower 
produced twice from seed ; therefore you must propagate the 
biennial and perennial flowers by layers, slips, pipings, and cut- 
tings, if you wish to preserve any particular sorts. 

To effect layers, prepare some rich, light earth, a parcel of 
small hooked sticks, or little pegs, and a sharp penknife. 

Now clear the ground about the plant you are going to layer ; 
stir the surface well with your trowel, and put a sufficient quan- 
tity of the prepared mould round the plant as will raise the sur- 
face to a convenient height for receiving the layer. 

Cut off the top of each shoot with your knife, about two inches, 



PKOPAGATING BIENNIALS. 



53 



and pull off the lower leaves ; then fix upon a joint about the 
middle of the shoot, and, placing your knife under it, slit the 
shoot from that joint, rather more than half way up, towards the 
joint above it. 

Now make an opening in the earth, and lay the stem, and slit 
or gashed shoot, into it, and peg it down ; taking care to raise 
the head of the shoot as upright as you can, that it may grow 
shapely ; then cover it with the new mould, and press the mould 
gently round it. Do this by each shoot till the plant is layered — 
that is, till every shoot is laid down. They must be watered 
often in dry weather, but moderately, not to disturb or wash 
away the soil round the layers. In six weeks' time, each gashed 
or slit shoot will have rooted, and become a distinct plant. They 
may be taken away from the old parent stem in September, and 
dug up with a ball of earth round each root, to be transplanted 
into the plots or borders where they are to remain. 

Carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double wall-flowers, &c, are 
the flowers most deserving of layers. 

Piping, which belongs almost exclusively to carnations and 
pinks, is a most expeditious mode of raising young plants. 

Take off the upper and young part of each shoot, close below 
a joint, with a sharp knife, and cut each off at the third joint, or 
little knob ; then cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take 
off the lower and discolored ones. When you have piped in this 
way as many as you require, let them stand a week in a tumbler 
of water, which greatly facilitates their doing well. Indeed, I 
never failed in any pipings, slips, or cuttings, which I allowed to 
soak and swell in water previous to planting. When you plant 
the pipings, let the ground be nicely dug, and raked very fine ; 
dibble no hole, but gently thrust each piping half way down into 
the soft earth, slightly pressing the earth round each, to fix it in 
the bed. Water them often if the weather is dry, but moder- 



54 



ladies' flower gardener. 



ately, just to keep them moist ; and shade them from the hot sun 
in the day. If pipings are covered with a hand-glass, they root 
earlier, by three weeks, than those which are exposed. 

Laying, piping, and slipping, are done in June and July. The 
plants will be well rooted, and fit to plant out, in October. 

The operation of slipping is easy. Tear the top shoots of the 
plant to be so propagated, gently from their sockets ; hold the 
shoot between your finger and thumb, as near the socket as you 
can, and it will tear as easily and neatly as you carve the wing 
of poultry or game. Place the slips in water for a few days 
previous to planting them, like pipings. They will root in six 
weeks or two months, if kept shady and moist. 

Cuttings must be made of shoots of the last year's growth of 
roses, honeysuckles, <fcc, and planted in February. Choose the 
strong shoots, and do not cut them less than six inches lono-. 
Cut them with your knife in a slanting direction. Plant them in 
a shady place, each cutting half way in the ground, which should 
be cleaned, and well dug and raked, to receive them. Cuttings 
made in February will root well by October. 

Cuttings of flower stalks, such as scarlet lychnis, should be 
done in May, June, and July. Take cuttings from the youngest 
flower stems, and plant them carefully in nice mould, like pip- 
ings. These flower cuttings should be in lengths of four joints 
each. Covering them with a hand-glass raises them very quickly. 
They root in two months. 

Where hand-glasses are not to form any part of a lady's 
arrangements, oil-papered frames are equally useful. I have 
seen very economical and useful frames made of bamboo, in the 
form of hand-glasses, covered neatly with glazed white cotton or 
linen, or horn paper, made by a lady with great celerity and in- 
genuity ; and her cuttings and pipings succeeded under them 
admirably. Whatever shelters cuttings and pipings from the, 



PROTECTION FOR CUTTINGS. 



55 



rays of the sun effects a material purpose. Linen is the best 
shelter in the world from heat, but oiled or horn paper resists 
rain better. 

Dr. Priestley is of opinion that salt water is very efficacious for 
cuttings, if they are placed in it for a few days previous to plant- 
ing. He remarks that it is a custom with the importers of exotic 
plants to dip cuttings in salt and water, otherwise they would 
perish on the passage. 



56 



ladies' flower gardener. 



CHAPTER V. 

ANNUALS. 

NNUALS, as I have observed before, are flowers that 
rise, bloom, and die in the same year ; and must there- 
fore be raised from seed every year. 
The first class of annuals, being very delicate, and requiring 
great care, with the constant assistance of glass frames, I shall 
not even name, since they do not enter into the nature of my 
work. 

I proceed to the second class, which are hardier than the 
above, though they should be raised in a warm border, and 
be covered with a hand-glass, if you wish them to flower in good 
time. 

The ten weeks' Stocks will grow, if sown in a warm border, 
towards the end of March, and should be afterwards transplant- 
ed ; but if brought up in a hot-bed, they will flower a month or 
six weeks earlier. 

The China-aster, Chrysanthemum, white and purple Sultan, 
African and French Marigolds, Persicarias, &c, will grow well in 
a warm border of natural earth, if sown in April ; but they also 
flower a month earlier if they are assisted by a hot-bed or glass. 
These annuals must be all planted out when tolerably strong, into 
the spots where they are destined to remain in the borders, tak- 
ing care to allow to each plant plenty of space, that they may 
not crowd each other. The China-aster branches into many 
stems and flowers, therefore they may be planted singly, or not 




ANNUALS. 



57 



less than six inches apart. The July flowers, or more commonly 
called gifliflowers, become expansive as they increase. They 
should not be crowded together; three in a group are quite 
sufficient, and they should be six inches apart. The same may 
be said of the stock varieties. 

I have ever found the hardy annuals grow finest by allowing 
them to become self-sown. They flower some weeks earlier, and 
invariably produce larger and brighter flowers. 

"When gathering my flower seeds in August and September, I 
allow one half to remain sprinkled over the borders ; and the 
young plants never fail appearing healthy and strong above 
ground in March and April, the months appropriated to sowing 
the seed. Thus, my Lavateras, Larkspurs, &c, are in beautiful 
blow, while the second crop, or seeds sown in spring, are but 
showing their green heads above the surface. I weed away the 
superfluous self-sown plants to my taste ; but the birds take care 
that no one shall be encumbered with a superfluity. I have by 
this means a first and second crop of the same annuals, but the 
crop of self-sown are far superior. They are up before the heats 
come on, to dry the earth, and dwindle the flower. 

Dig the ground well with your trowel, and rake it very fine, 
before you put in the seeds in spring. Annuals love a light, 
friable soil. All the hardy kinds may be sown in March, each 
sort in little separate patches, as follows : — ■ 

Draw a little earth off the top to one side, then sprinkle in the 
seed, not too plentifully, and cover it again with the drawn-off 
earth. Half an inch is sufficient depth for small seed. The 
larger kind, such as sweet-peas, lupins, &c, must be sown an 
inch in depth. When the plants have been up some time, thin 
them well. The more space you have, the finer the plants will 
rise. 

The hardy annuals will not bear transplanting : they must be 



58 



ladies' flower gardener. 



left to flourish where they are sown. The large kinds, such as 
the lavatera or mallow, should only he sown in groups of three 
plants together. The lupin tribe should not exceed five plants in 
a group. The Convolvulus, also, requires four or five plants only 
in a group. Water the patches in dry weather moderately, and 
be careful never to use pump water. If you have no soft water, 
a tub should be placed in the garden to receive rain water ; and 
if, as in towns, pump water must be chiefly used, let it remain a 
day or two in the tub, to soften in the air and sunshine. 

The first week in April is the safest period for sowing annuals, 
as the cutting winds have ceased by that time, and frost is not so 
much to be apprehended. The soft rains, also, fall in warm 
showers, to give life and germ to seeds and plants, and they 
appear in a shorter space of time. 

Those ladies who live in the vicinity of nursery gardens have a 
great advantage over the more remote flower-fanciers. They can 
be supplied, at a trifling expense, with all the tender annuals 
from hot-beds, either in pots, or drawn ready for immediate 
transplanting. 

If you do not raise your own seed, be careful how you pur- 
chase your stock, and of whom you receive it. Many seedsmen 
sell the refuse of many years' stock to their youthful customers, 
and produce great disappointment. There is one way of ascer- 
taining the goodness of the seed, which will not deceive. Pre- 
vious to sowing, plunge your lupin, sunflower, &c, seeds into a 
tumbler of water : the good seed will sink, while the light and 
useless part remains floating on the surface. 

If you grow your own seed, exchange it every two years with 
your neighbors. Seeds love change of soil : they degenerate, 
if repeatedly grown and sown upon the same spot, particularly 
sweet-peas. 

Sweet-peas should be put into the ground early in March, for 



ANNUALS. 



59 



they will bear the wind and weather. Make a circle round a 
pole, or some object to which they may cling as they rise ; and 
put the peas an inch deep, having soaked them previously in 
water well saturated with arsenic, to guard them from the depre- 
dations of birds and mice. Add an outer circle of peas eveiy 
month, so that a continual bloom may appear. The circle first 
sown will ripen and pod for seed in the center, while the outer 
vines will continue flowering till late in the autumn. When you 
have gathered a sufficient number of ripe pods, cut away all the 
pods which may afterwards form with your knife. This strength- 
ens the vines, and throws all their vigor into repeated blooms. 

Be very careful to throw away the arsenic water upon your 
heap of compost, and do not put that powerful poison into any 
thing which may be used afterwards in the house. Soak the 
peas in a flower-pot saucer which is never required for any other 
purpose, and keep it on a shelf in the tool-house, covered up. 
Three or four hours' soaking will be sufficient. If the wind and 
frosts be powerful and continued, shelter the peas through March, 
by covering them with straw or matting every evening. 

I have got sweet-peas into very early blow by bringing them 
up in pots in- doors, and transplanting them carefully in April, 
without disturbing the roots. In doing this, push your finger 
gently through the orifice at the bottom of the flower-pot, and 
raise its contents " bodily." Then place the ball of earth and 
plants into a hole troweled out to receive it ; cover it round gently, 
and, if the weather is dry, water it moderately. 

Ten-weeks' Stock is a very pretty annual, and continues a long 
time in bloom. Mignionette is the sweetest of all perfumes, and 
should be sown in September for early blowing, and again in 
March for a later crop. It is always more perfumy and healthy, 
if dug into the ground in autumn to sow itself. Venus' Looking- 
glass is a very pretty, delicate flower. Indeed, every annual is 



60 



LADIES FLOWER GARDENER. 



lovely ; and the different varieties give a gay and rich appearance 
to the flower garden daring the three summer months. 

The Clarkias are very pretty annuals, with a hundred other 
varieties lately introduced, and which are all specified in Mrs. 
Loudon's new work upon annuals. My plan is, to give a general 
idea of their treatment only, under the classification of hardy 
annuals, or those annuals which may be nurtured without a hot- 
bed. 

Keep your annuals from looking wild and disorderly in a 
garden by allotting the smaller kinds their separate patches of 
ground ; and trim the larger annuals from branching among other 
flowers. For instance, cut away the lower branches of the China- 
aster, the African marigold, &c, and train the plant erect and 
neatly to a slight rod or stick ; cut away the flowers as they 
droop, reserving one or two of the finest blooms only for seed ; 
and let each plant look clean and neat in its own order. By 
cutting away flowers as they droop, the plant retains vigor 
enough to continue throwing out fresh flowers for a long period. 



SECOND, Oft LESS TENDER CLASS OF ANNUALS. 



African Marigold, the orange 

Yellow 

Straw-colored 

Double of each 

Double-quilled 
French Marigold, the striped 

The yellow 

Sweet-scented 
China-aster, the double 

Double purple 

Double white 

Double-striped ■ 
Marvel of Peru, the red striped 

Yellow-striped 

Long-tubed 
Chrysanthemum, the double white 

Double yellow 

Double-quilled 
Sweet Sultan, the yellow 



White 
Red 

Indian Pink, double 
Single 

Large imperial 

Alkckengi 

Pahna Christi, the common 

Tall red-stalked 

Smaller green-leaved 

Smallest 
Tobacco, long-leaved Virginia 

Broad-leaved 

Branching perennial 
Love Apple, with red fruit 

With yellow fruit 
Gourds, the round smooth orange 

Rock, or warted 

Pear-shaped yellow 

Pear-shaped striped 



» 



ANNUALS. 



61 



Stone colored 

Bottle Gourd, some very large, from 
Two or three to rive or six feet 
long, and of various shapes 

Momordica Balsamina 

Persicaria 

i li n Com. The Tall Dwarf 
Nolana prostrata, blue 
Convolvulus, scarlet- flowered 
Yellow Balsam, or Touch-me-not 
Capsicum, long red podded 
Long yellow-podded 
Red. short, thick, roundish podded 
With heart-shaped pods 
With cherry-shaped fruit, red 
Cherry-shaped fruit, yellow 
Basil, the common, or sweet-scented 
Bush basil 



Zinnia, red 

Yellow 
Amaranthus 
Tree Amaranthus 

Prince's feather amaranthus 

Love-lies-bleeding amaranthus 
Cannacorus, yellow 

Red 

Chinese Hollyhock, the variegated 
Ten- week Stock Gillifloicer 

The double red 

Double white 

Double purple 
White Ten- week Stock, with a wall- 
flower leaf 

With double and single flowers 

The double of this sort makes a 
pretty appearance 



The following are hardy annuals, requiring no assistance of 
artificial heat, but should all be sown in the place where it is 
designed they shall flower : — 



Adonis Fit 



or Flos Adonis, the 



The yellow 
Candytuft, the large 
Purple 
White 

Larkspur, the double rose 

Double-branched 

Large double blue 

Double white 
Lupins. The rose 

Large blue 

Small blue 

Yellow 

White 

Scarlet 

Marbled 
Sunflower, the tall double 

Double dwarf 
Lav at era. reel 

White' 

Poppy, the double tall striped car- 
ration 
Dwarf-striped 
Double corn poppy 
Horned poppy 



Convolvulus, major 

Minor 

STriped 
• White 

Scarlet 
Ketmia bladder 
Starry Scabius 
Hcurkiveccl, the yellow 

Purple, or red 

Spanish 

Carthamus tinctorius, or saffron- 
flower 
Nasturtium, the large 
Small 

Cerinthe major, or great Honey-wort 
Tangier Pea 

Sweet Pea, the painted lady 

The purple 

White 

Scarlet 
Winged Pea 
Crowned Pea 

Nigclla. or devil in a bush, the long 
blue, or Spanish 
The white 

Oriental mallow, curled 



62 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Venetian mallow 
LobePs Catchfly, white and red 
Arbiscus 
Pimpernel 
Dwarf Lychnis 
Venus' s Navel-wort 
Venush Looking-glass 
Virginian Stock 
Strawberry Spinach 
Noli me tangere, or Touch-me-not 
Heart's Ease 
Snail Plant 

Large ditto 
Caterpillar Plant 
Hedgehog Plant 

Antirrhinum, snap-dragon, the annual 
Nolana, blue 

Cyanus, or corn-bottle, the red 

White 

Blue 
Roman Nettle 

Belvidere, or summer cypress 
Garden, or common, Marigold, the 
common single 
Double orange 



Double lemon-colored 
Double lemon-colored ranunculus 
marigold 

Annual Cape Marigold, with a violet 
and white flower 

Mignionette, or reseda, the sweet- 
scented 
The upright 

Xeranthemum, or eternal flower, red 
and white 

Purple Clary 

Purple Jacobma 

Dracocephalum, the purple 
Blue 

Capnoides, or bastard fumitory 
Ten-week Stock Gillijlowers, in variety 
Persicaria 
Tobacco Plant 

Long-leaved, 

Round-leaved 
Indian Corn 
Amethystea 
Globe Thistle 
Clarkias 



EOSES AND JASMINES. 



63 



CHAPTER VI. 

ROSES AND JASMINES. 

HESE most delicious, most elegant flowers — in themselves 
a garden — are worthy of a chapter devoted exclusively 
to their culture. What cottage exists without its roses 
twined around the doorway, or blooming up its pathway ? 
What is sentiment without its roses ? What other flower illus- 
trates the beauty and excellence of a loved one ? — 

" Oh ! my love is like the red, red rose, 
That sweetly blows in June.*' 

Every gentle feeling, every exquisite thought, every delicate 
allusion, is embodied in the rose. It is absurd to say the rose by 
any other name " would smell as sweet." It is not so. Poetry, 
painting, and music, have deified the rose. Call it " nettle," and 
we should cast it from our hands in disgust. 

There are innumerable varieties of roses, from the cottage rose 
to the fairy rose, whose buds are scarcely so large as the bells of 
the lily of the valley. Mrs. Gore mentions some hundreds of 
sorts, but such a catalogue is too mighty to insert in my little 
work. I will name only the well-known hardy kinds, and refer 
my reader to Mrs. Gore herself for the complete collection. Seed 
yields such inexhaustible varieties, that a new list will be required 
every ten years. 

The Damask rose is very useful from its properties, as well as 
its beauty and hardihood. Rose-water is distilled from this 
bright thickly-blowing flower 




64 



ladies' flower gardener. 



The Cabbage roses is the most beautiful, as well as the most 
fragrant of roses. All others are varieties of roses, but this grand 
flower is the " rose itself." 

It throws out suckers plentifully for propagating its kind ; and 
every two or three years, the root of each bush will part into 
separate plants. Cut the roots slanting with a sharp knife as 
you divide them. A very small bit of root is sufficient for a rose- 
bush, as they are hardy in their nature. Do not move roses 
oftener than you can help : they delight in being stationary for 
years. 

In pruning roses of every description, which should be effected 
in January, shorten all the shoots to nine inches only, and cut 
away all the old wood, which becomes useless after two or three 
years' growth. This treatment insures fine flowers. 

Roses love a good soil, as, indeed, what flower does not ? 
Fresh mould applied to them every two or three years, or 
manure dug round them annually, preserves them in constant 
vigor and beauty. 

Shoots of rose-bushes laid down and pegged like layers, only 
without gashing, when the flowers are in bloom, will root and 
become plants in the autumn. Pinch off their buds, that they 
may throw their strength into their roots. 

Roses are often observed to change their color, which effect 
proceeds chiefly from bad soil. When this occurs, manure the 
root of the bush or plant. A clay soil, well dressed with ashes, 
is the best of all soils for the hardy roses. 

Moss roses love a cool soil and a cool aspect. They soon fade 
in a hot sun. 

A pyramid of climbing roses is a beautiful object in a garden. 
Iron or wooden stakes, twelve feet in height, gradually approach- 
ing each other, till they meet at the top, with climbing roses 
trained up their sides, is a pleasing and easily constructed orna- 



EOSES AND JASMINES. 



65 



ment. Fancy and taste may range at will in inventing forms to 
ornament the parterre with roses. Beds of roses, raised pyramid- 
ally, have a splendid effect. When the flowers die away in the 
autumn, the mass may be clipped again into form, with the 
garden shears, as you would clip a laurel hedge. 

Standard roses, which are so much in fashion at this time, and 
which always remind one of a housemaid's long broom for sweep- 
ing cobwebs, are beyond a lady's own management, as budding 
is a troublesome business, and very frequently fails. I will not, 
therefore, touch upon that subject. 

The double yellow rose is very elegant. It requires a western 
aspect, and even prefers north and east, but a warm aspect in- 
jures its beauty. It loves a good substantial soil, and will not 
bear much cutting or removing. Let it alone in its glory, only 
pruning away the old scraggy wood occasionally, to strengthen 
the plant. 

The monthly rose is also a lover of the north and east. It 
blooms through the autumn and winter, has an evergreen leaf, 
and loves a strong soil. It must be propagated by cuttings, and 
parting the roots, as it never throws up suckers. Prune away 
the old wood, and make cuttings in June, July, and August, of 
the branches you clear away. Plant the cuttings in loose, moist 
earth, and do not let them bud till the following year. Let the 
cuttings be sunk two joints in the earth, leaving only one exposed. 
The monthly rose climbs, or creeps. 

The Austrian briar, or rose, will not flower if exposed to the 
south. It bears a rich mass of flowers, yellow outside, and deep 
red within. Give it an eastern or western aspect. 

The perpetual, or " four-season " rose, requires a rich soil. 
The flower buds appearing in June or July should be pinched 
off, and in winter the plant may be pruned as closely as its 



66 



ladies' flower gardener. 



hardier companions. Place the four- season rose in a sheltered 
situation from winds. 

Among the hardy climbing roses, the Ayrshire rose is the most 
useful. Its foliage is rich, and it covers fences, walls, &c, with 
astonishing rapidity. It flowers in July. Place it in a warm 
situation, and it will extend thirty feet in one season. 

Lady Banks's yellow rose is a pretty climber, and flowers early 
in all situations. So does the Rosa semper vir ens. 

Climbing roses will grow luxuriantly under the shade of trees, 
and form a mass of fragrant underwood in shrubberies. They 
grow with surprising vigor if allowed to remain prostrate. Plant 
these thinly, and lay in the most vigorous shoots, by pegging 
them down into the ground. This process increases the plants 
rapidly, and gives the gayest possible effect. 

The Rosa hybrida multiflora is a hardy and rapidly growing 
rose. It flowers also from June to September. So does the red 
and crimson Boursault, and the Rosa Russeliana. 

Roses are subject to the green fly, which disfigures their beauty, 
particularly the white roses. An excellent remedy for this annoy- 
ance is effected by moistening the plant, and then dusting it over 
with equal portions of sulphur and tobacco dust. 

The following list of roses will not prove beyond a lady's man- 
agement, being hardy, and requiring only pruning every January, 
and giving them a good soil. Prune the white rose-trees very 
sparingly, as they do not love the knife : — 



Roses, early cinnamon 
Double yellow 
Single yellow 
Red monthly 
White monthly 
Double white 
Moss Provence 
Common Provence 
Double velvet 



Single Ditto 

Dutch hundred-leaved 

Blush ditto 

Blush Belgic 

Red ditto 

Marbled 

Large royal 

York and Lancaster 

Red damask 



EOSES AND JASMINES. 



67 



Blush ditto 

Austrian, with flowers having one 

side red and the other yellow 
White damask 
Austrian yellow 
Double musk 
Royal virgin 

Rosa mundi, i. e., rose of the world, 

or striped red rose 
Frankfort 
Cluster blush 
Maiden blush 



Virgin, or thornless 
Common red 
Burnet leaved 
Scotch, the dwarf 
Striped Scotch 
Apple-bearing 
Single American 
Rose of Meux 
Pennsylvanian 
Red cluster 
Burgundy rose 
Perpetual, or four-season 



HARDY CLIMBING ROSES. 



The Ayrshire rose 

Double ditto 
Rose hybrida multiflora 
Rose Clair 
Rosa Russeliana 
Reversa elegans 



Rosa sempervirens, three sorts 

Rose ruga 

Red Boursault 

Crimson ditto 

Lady Banks' yellow rose 



JASMINES. 



Jasmines grow in very irregular forms. Perhaps their luxuri- 
ant wild appearance constitutes their chief grace. The jasmine 
is a beautiful screen in summer, wreathing its festoons through 
trellis-work ; and it appears to me that Nature presents not, in 
our colder climes, a more fragrant and beautiful bouquet than a 
mixture of roses and jasmines. 

The common jasmine is hardy, and loves a good soil, by which 
term I mean kitchen garden soil. Trench round the stem occa- 
sionally to lighten the earth, and it will grow very freely. Put 
litter round the jasmine in severe frost ; and if a very rigorous 
season destroy the branches, the root will be saved, and its shoots 
in the spring will soon replace the loss. If they shoot out with 
displeasing irregularity and confusion, take off the least healthy 
looking branches, and cut away those which grow rumpled, for 
they only consume the juices of the plant to no purpose. The 
common jasmine is propagated by layers and slips. 



68 



ladies' flower gardener. 



The Arabian jasmine is very fragrant, but it does not endure 
cold, or much heat, therefore an eastern aspect suits it best. If 
the Arabian jasmine is grown in a large pot or box, it could 
be placed under cover during frost in the winter months ; but do 
not place it in a green-house, which would be in the other ex- 
treme again. 

The yellow jasmine may be treated like the common jasmine. 
It is not very fragrant, but it forms an elegant variety. 

I have seen very fanciful and beautiful devices invented to dis- 
play the beauty of the jasmine. Their shoots grow so rapidly 
and luxuriantly, that if the plant is allowed to luxuriate, it will 
soon cover any frame- work with its drooping beauty. The jas- 
mine loves to hang downwards ; and I have admired inventive 
little arbors, where the plant has been trained up behind them, 
and the branches allowed to fall over their front in the richest 
profusion, curtained back like the entrance of a tent. The effect, 
during their time of flowering, was remarkably elegant. 

When you prune the jasmine, cut the branches to an eye or 
bud, just by the place from which they sprout, and that in such 
a manner, that the head when trimmed, should resemble the head 
of a willow. This method makes them throw out abundance of 
branches and fine flowers. 

Give fresh soil to the jasmine every two years, or they will 
gradually become weakened in their blooms. The secret of hav- 
ing fine flowers is in keeping up the soil to a regular degree of 
strength, as the human frame languishes under change of diet, 
and becomes weakened for want of food. Thus it is with animate 
and inanimate nature. 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 



69 



CHAPTER VII. 

ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND EVERGREENS. 



SHALL speak now of the ornamental shrubs which de- 
corate a flower garden, and which a lady may superintend 
herself, if her own physical powers are not equal to the 
fatigue of planting. A laborer, or a stout active girl, may act 
under her orders, and do all that is necessary to be done, in 
removing or planting flowering shrubs and evergreens. 

In planting flowering shrubs, be very particular to plant them 
at such distances that each plant may have plenty of room to 
grow, and strike out their roots and branches freely. If shrubs 
are crowded together, they become stunted in growth, and lanky 
in form. 

If you are forming a clump, or even a plantation, let each 
shrub be planted six feet apart from its neighbor : but if you 
wish to plant roses, syringas, honeysuckles, lilacs, &c, in your 
flower borders, they should be from twelve to fifteen feet distant 
from each other, so as not to interfere with the flowers growing 
below them. 

Do not plant tall shrubs promiscuously among low-growing 
ones. Let the taller shrubs form the back-grounds, that each 
shrub may be distinctly seen. The shrubs should be trained up 
with single stems, and they should be pruned every year, 
taking up the suckers, and removing disorderly branches. 

By allowing each shrub plenty of room, it will form a hand- 
some head, and throw out vigorous shoots. You will also have 

j 




7Q ladies' flower gardener. 

space to dig between the shrubs, and the sun and air can benefit 
them. 

Some of the more beautiful evergreens look extremely well 
dotted about the grounds singly or in clumps, but be very parti- 
cular in planting your shrubs. 

For instance, when you wish to transplant or plant a shrub, 
dig a circular hole sufficiently large to receive the roots of .the 
plant, which must be laid neatly down, while some person holds 
the shrub in its proper position, straight and upright. Cut away 
any dead or damaged roots ; then break the earth well with your 
spade and throw it into the hole, shaking the plant gently, just 
to let the earth fall close in among the roots. When it is well 
filled up, tread the earth gently round the shrub to fix it, but do 
not stamp it, as I have seen people do. 

But if you can take up shrubs with a ball of earth round their 
roots, they do not feel the operation, and their leaves do not 
droop Water each shrub after planting: give each of them a 
good soaking, and let each plant have a stake to support it dur- 
ing the winter. 

October is the autumn month for transplanting shrubs, and 
February and March are the spring months. I always prefer the 
autumn transplanting, as the rains and showers are so fructifying. 
March is the last month for transplanting evergreens. 

Laurustinus, Phillyreas, and Laurel, are excellent shrubs to 
plant near buildings, or to hide a wall. They are evergreen 
summer and winter, very hardy, and quick growing. 

The Pyracantha is an elegant shrub, with its clusters of red 
berries ; and it looks gay during the autumn and winter. 

The Arbutus, or strawberry tree, is loaded with its strawbei 
ries in August, September, and October. This is a beautiful 
shrub, placed singly on a lawn, kept to one single clean stem 
and a fine branching head. 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 



71 



Portugal laurels are beautiful : their deep green leaves, and 
scented feathery flowers, make them an important shrub in all 
gardens. 

It has been ascertained by the late severe winter, that ever- 
greens are extremely hardy, and will bear any severity of frost. 
All those evergreens considered most tender, such as Portugal 
laurels, rhododendrons, &c, were observed to brave the frost un- 
hurt, which were placed in high unsheltered places, or facing the 
east and north, It was observed, also, that those evergreens 
were destroyed whose aspect was south and west, and which lay 
in warm and sheltered situations. The cause was this. The 
shrubs did not suffer which were not subject to alternations of 
heat and cold ; while those which lay in warm situations, being 
thawed by the sun's rays during the day, could not endure the 
sudden chill of returning frost at night. 

Plant your evergreens, therefore, fearlessly in exposed situa- 
tions ; and care only, in severe winters, for those which are likely 
to be thawed and frozen again twice in twenty-four hours. 

Rhododendrons are very beautiful shrubs, and grow into trees 
if the soil agrees with them. They love a bog soil. 

The Camelia japonica is considered a green-house plant, but it 
becomes hardy, like the laurel, if care is taken to shelter it for a 
few winters, when it gradually adapts itself to the climate. This 
is troublesome, perhaps, as most things are, to indolent people ; 
but the trouble is well repaid by the beautiful flowers of the 
japonicas, its dark leaves, and delicate scent. 

The gum Cistus is a handsome evergreen, and looks well any- 
where and everywhere. Some straw litter spread round their 
roots in winter is a great protection. 

All evergreens of a hard-wooded nature are propagated rapidly 
by layers in June or July. This is the method : — Dig round the 
tree or shrub, and bend down the pliable branches ; lay them 



72 



ladies' flower gardener. 



into the earth, and secure them there with hooked or forked 
sticks. Lay down all the young shoots on each branch, and 
cover them with earth about five inches deep, leaving the tops 
out about two, three, or four inches above ground, according to 
their different lengths. If these branches are laid in June or 
July, they will root by Michaelmas ; but if they are laid in 
October, they will be a twelvemonth rooting. 

The layers of Alaternuses and Phillyreas will sometimes be 
two years rooting, if done so late as October ; therefore lay down 
your shoots, if possible, in June. Let the shoots which are lay- 
ered be those of the last summer's growth. 

You may propagate shrubs also from cuttings in February and 
October. Let strong shoots be chosen, of last summer's growth : 
choose them from nine to fifteen inches long, and, if you can, take 
about two inches of old wood with the shoots at their base. Trim 
off the lower leaves, place the cuttings half way in the ground, 
and plant them in a shady border to root. Do this in February, 
in preference to October, as everything roots earlier from spring 
operations. You may also plant cuttings in June, but keep them 
moist and shady. 

October is a good month for taking up suckers of lilacs, roses, 
&c, and for all sorts of transplanting in its varieties. It is also 
the month to transplant the layers of such shrubs as were laid hi 
the previous October. 

I subjoin a list of hardy deciduous shrubs and evergreens, not 
too tall to admit into a moderately sized flower garden : — 

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS OF LESSER GROWTH. 



Arbutus, Strawberry tree 
Common 
Double-flowering 
Red-flowering 
Eastern, 01 Andrachne 



Almond, common 

White-flowering 

Early dwarf, single flower 

Double dwarf 
Ailhcea fruUx, striped 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 



73 



Red 

White 
Blue 
Purple 

Pheasant's eye 
Andromeda, striped 

Evergreen 
Azalea, with, red flowers 

White 

Bet berry, common, red fruit 

Stoneless, red fruit 

White fruit 
Bladder-nut, three-leaved 

Five-leaved 
Broom, the Spanish 

Double-flowering 

Yellow Portugal 

White Portugal 

Lucca 

Bramble, double-flowering 

American upright 

White-fruited 

D warf 

Thornless 
Chionanthus.Yx'mge. or Snowdrop tree 
Candleberry Myrtle, broad-leaved 

Long-leaved 

Fern-leaved 

Oak-leaved 
Cherry, double-blossomed 

Cornelian 

Dwarf Canada 
Currant, with gold and silver-blotch- 
ed leaves 

With gooseberry leaves 

Pennsylvanian 
Dogwood, the common 

Virginia 

Great-flowering 

Newfoundland 
Empctrum, black-berried heath 
Guelder Rose, common 

Double, or snowball 

Carolina 

Gold-blotched leaf 

Currant-leaved 
Hydrangea, white-flowering 
Honeysuckle, early red Italian 

Early white Dutch 

Late Dutch 

Late red 



Long-blowing 

Large scarlet trumpet 

Small trumpet 

Oak-leaved 

Early white Italian 

Early red Italian 
Ivy, deciduous, or Virginian creeper 
Jasmine, the common white 

Common yellow Italian 

Gold-striped leaved 

Silver- striped leaved 
Lilac, blue 

White 

Purple, or Scotch 

Persian, with cut leaves 

Persian, white-flowered 

Persian, blue-flowered 
Lonicera, upright Honeysuckle 

Red-berried 

Blue-berried 

Virginian 

Tartarian 
Meter eon, white 

Early red 

Late red 

Purple 

Mespilus, spring-flowering 

Lady Hardwick's shrub 
Peach, double-flowering 
Privet, common 

Silver-striped 

Yellow-blotched leaves 
Ptclea, or American Shrub Trefoil 
Pomegranate, single-flowering 

Double 
Robinia, or false Acacia 

Common 

Yellow-flowered 

Scarlet-flowered, or rose acacia 

Caragana 
Rhamnus, or Buckthorn 

Common 

Sea buckthorn 

Yellow-berried 

Creeping evergreen 
Raspberry, double-flowering 

Virginian sweet-flowering 
Rose, in every variety 
Spircea frutex, common red 

Scarlet 

White 



74 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Sumach, scarlet 

Large downy 

White f 

Virginia 

Elm-leaved 

Myrtle-leaved 

Carolina 
Syringa, common 

Dwarf double-fiowerin 
Scorpion Senna 



Smilax, broad-leaved 
Blotched-leaved 

Tulip Tree 

Tamarisk, the French 

German 
Viburnum, or Wayfarer 

Common 

Stripe-leaved 

American broad-leaved 

Maple-leaved 



EVERGREENS. 



Alaternus, common 

Blotched-leaved 

Jagged-leaved, plain 

Ditto, striped 

Silver-striped • 

Gold-striped 
Cistus, or Rock Rose 

Gum Cistus, with spotted flowers 

With plain white flowers 

Purple sage-leaved 

Male Portugal 

Bay-leaved gum 

With hairy willow leaves 

Black poplar-leaved 

Waved-leaved 

Purple, or true Gum Cistus of 
Crete, with other varieties 
Cytisus, Neapolitan 
Canary 

Siberian and Tartarian 
Laurustinus. common 

Broad, or shining-leaved 

Rough-leaved 

Oval-leaved 
Bay, broad-leaved 

Narrow-leaved 
Phillyrea, the true 

Broad-leaved 

Privet-leaved 

Prickly-leaved 

Olive-leaved 

Gold-edged 

Silver-edged 

Rosemary edged 
Juniper, common 

■Swedish 

Sclavonian 



Canada 
Jasmine, evergreen 
Pyracantha 
Ivy, common 

Striped-leaved 

Virginian 

Irish, or quick-growing 
Honeysuckle, evergreen 
Rose, the evergreen 
Rhododendron, dwarf Rose Bay 
Kalmia, olive-leaved 

Broad-leaved 

Thyme-leaved 
Coronilla, narrow-leaved 

Broad-leaved 
Magnolia, laurel-leaved 

Lesser bay-leaved 
Arbor Vitce, common 

China 

American 
Cypress, common upright 

Male spreading 
Bignonia, the evergreen 
Widow Wail 
Locust of Montpelier 
j Medicago, Moon Trefoil 
Stonecrop Shrub 
Ragwort, the sea 
Holly, the common 

Carolina broad-leaved 

Yellow-berried 

Many varieties 
Laurels, common 

Portugal 

Alexandrian 
Oak, Ilex, or evergreen 

Kennes, or scarlet-bearing 



EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 



75 



Gramuntian, holly-leaved Wormwood, lavender-leaved 

Carolina live Spurge, or wood laurel 

Germander, shrubby, of Crete Knecholm, or Butcher's Broom 

Euonymus, evergreen Virginia Horse-tail, shrubby 

Virginia Groundsel Tree I 

In pruning shrubs, be careful to cut out the long rambling 
shoots of the last summer's growth, which disfigures their appear- 
ance. Cut away, also, branches of shrubs which interlace each 
other, that every shrub may stand clear and well-defined. Take 
away their suckers, and let each shrub be kept to a single stem, 
as I have before observed. 



76 



LADIES ? FLOWER GARDENER. 



CHAPTER VIE. 

i 

ON HOUSE AND WINDOW GARDENING. 

(BT MR. CHARLES MACKINTOSH.) 

HE culture of flowering and sweet-scented plants, as orna- 
ments in human dwellings, has been practiced from such 
remote antiquity that no one can name the date of its 
origin. House plants are also a kind of ornaments which all the 
labors of the most refined art can never exceed or even reach ; 
and hence in the most refined and luxurious states of society, 
flowers maintain a high place among the leading ornaments ; and 
the assembly-rooms of beauty and fashion, and the banqueting- 
halls of the noble and the great, would look tame and barren 
without those most beautiful and most appropriate decorums. 

Farther, it is one of the great merits of these lovely produc- 
tions of nature, that they are for the humble as well as for the 
high. The humblest window in the most obscure and crowded 
court of a city may have its flower-pot ; and they who are cut 
off by occupation or other circumstances from the free range of 
growing nature, may still command a little vegetable kingdom of 
their own in a few well-selected and carefully-attended flowers. 

A species of ornament, which is in its own nature so pleasing 
and so innocent, which requires far less labor and expense than 
many other ornaments of very inferior value, and which adapts itself 
to every imaginable class of society, is surely worthy of the study, 
the encouragement, and the care of all who seek happiness to 
themselves, or wish to promote the happiness of others. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



That there is no want of love for such plants is evident from 
the places in which they appear ; but the kind and state of the 
plants very generally show that there is a great want of know- 
ledge, both in their selection and their management. In order 
to contribute a little to the supplying of this defect, we propose 
to offer a very brief compendium of what the French and Ger- 
mans call " Window Gardening ;" and in order to render what 
we state as clear as possible, we shall divide it into several heads, 
or points. 

PLANTS PROPER FOR WINDOW CULTURE. 

As the situation of these plants is different from what they 
occupy in their natural state, it becomes necessary to select such 
as are capable of accommodating themselves to circumstances ; 
and as the unfavorable circumstances of house plants are chiefly 
want of free and pure air, and of light, and in those species which 
are accustomed to long seasons of repose in the winter, to uniform 
temperature, these circumstances must be kept in mind in the 
selection. Rooms, especially in crowded cities, are the most 
unnatural, and, on that account, the very worst situations in 
which plants can be placed ; and therefore, if healthy plants and 
an abundance of bloom are sought for, variety must be sacrificed. 

Plants which will continue healthy for a long time in the con- 
fined air of rooms, are generally those which have a peculiar 
surface, or texture in the foliage : such are many of the Aloes, 
Cactuses, Mesembryanthemums, among what are called succulent 
plants ; and, in a higher temperature, some of the curious Epi- 
phytes, or the natural order Orchidece. We recollect once seeing 
a very interesting collection of more than two hundred species, 
growing in a high state of perfection, in the bouse of an amateur 
of succulent plants, living in the Grand Sablon at Brussels. The 



78 



ladies' flower gardener. 



room containing them was fitted up much in the same way as an 
ordinary library, with abundance of light shelves round the walls, 
and a large table in the middle of the room, on which were placed 
the pots containing the plants. At night, the room was lighted 
up by an elegant glass lamp, and it was heated by one of those 
ornamental stoves which are so common on the Continent. Alto- 
gether, it had a very handsome appearance. 

The Chinese are very attentive to the house culture of many 
of the orchideous epiphytse, and thereby greatly increase the 
beauty and the fragrance of their apartments ; they have them 
in ornamental vases and baskets, and even suspended in the air, 
where they last for many years and flower beautifully. Some of 
them continue in flower for many months, and diffuse the most 
delightful fragrance during the night.* 

The reason why the succulent and epiphytous plants answer 
so well for house culture is, that their winter is one of drought 
and not of cold, and that the latter especially have little, and 
some of them no mould at the roots in their natural situations. 
But there has been hitherto a prejudice against, or at all events 
an ignorance of, and want of attention to, the culture of succu- 
lent plants in this country. This is unwise ; for many of them 
are exceedingly beautiful, highly fragrant, and better adapted for 
house culture than any plants whatever. They are singularly 
curious and varied in their structures ; and, generally speaking, 
they require less light, air, and moisture, than other plants. 

Next to them, in point of eligibility for house culture, may be 
reckoned such plants as have coriaceous leaves, that is, have their 
leaves firm, and with a smooth and compact epidermis, — such as 
oranges, pittosporums, myrtles, and others of similar texture ; 
these are found to have organs much better adapted to confined 

* Renanthera coccinea is one of the finest of these, and was first flowered 
in this country by the author of this paper. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



79 



air than plants which have the leaves small or of delicate texture. 
Some tribes, as the heaths, the Epacridece, and the whole race of 
pinnate-leaved and papilionaceous flowered plants, are wholly 
unfit for house culture. 

TREATMENT OF HOUSE PLANTS. 

Water, heat, air, and light, are the four essential stimulants to 
plants ; water, heat, and air, to promote growth ; and light to 
render that growth perfect. 

Water, heat, and air, man can command at his pleasure by 
artificial means ; but over light, as an element of the perfect 
growth of plants, we have less control. To be beneficial to plants, 
light must come directly from the sun ; and therefore the plants 
should be so placed, as that it may act upon them with as little 
as possible of that refraction and decomposition which it suffers 
when it passes obliquely through glass, or any other medium 
except the air. Plants grown in the open air, and with such free 
exposure to the light as their habits require, not only develop all 
their parts in their proper form, but their leaves, flowers, and 
fruits, have their natural colors, odors, and flavors. Plants ex- 
cluded from light have not their natural color, odor, nor flavor, 
they make little or no charcoal in the woody part, the leaves are 
not green, and if they do flower and fruit, which is rarely the 
case, the flowers are pale and scentless, and the fruit is insipid. 
This has been proved by many experiments, of which the blanch- 
ing of celery and endive by earthing up, and that of a cabbage 
by the natural process of hearting, are familiar instances. A 
geranium placed in a dark room becomes first pale, then spotted, 
and ultimately white ; and if brought to the light it again ac- 
quires its color. 

If plants kept in the dark are exposed to the action of hydrogen 
gas, they retain their green color, though how this gas acts has 



80 



ladies' flowee gaedenee. 



not been ascertained. Some flowers, too, such as the crocus and 
tulip, are colored though grown in the dark. 

Light seems to be fully as essential to plants as air or heat, and 
while it acts beneficially on the upper surfaces of the leaves, it 
appears to be injurious to the under surfaces, at least of some 
plants ; for in whatever way a plant is placed, it contrives to turn 
the upper surfaces of its leaves to the light. Professor Lindley 
is, we believe, making some experiments on this subject. 

Plants in rooms turn not only their leaves, but their branches 
to the window at which the light enters, and a plant may, by 
turning it at intervals, be made to bend successively to all sides ; 
but such bendings weaken the plant, and thus it is an excessive 
or unnatural action. This turning of the plant to the light is 
always of course in proportion to the brightness of that light as 
compared with the other sides of the plant. Flowers, too, open 
their petals to the light, and close them in the dark, or in some 
cases, as in that of the crocus, when a cloud passes over the sun. 
The same flower, and also some others, will open their petals to 
the light of a lamp or candle, and close them again when that is 
withdrawn. 

It follows as a necessary consequence, that in rooms, plants 
should be placed as near the window as possible, that the win- 
dows should have a south exposure, and that they should be as 
seldom as possible shaded with blinds or otherwise. If piaced 
at a distance from the windows, plants should be frequency 
changed, and to place them permanently on tables or man el- 
shelves is bad management. 

Air is as necessary to the health of plants as light ; but air :an 
find its way where light cannot, and therefore it requires less cere 
from the cultivator. If the air is too close, opening the door and 
windows produces a change, the warm air escaping at top, and 
cold air coming in below ; but on opening the windows of a tvarm 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



81 



room in cold weather, care must be taken not to chill the plants 
by leaving them in the cold current. 

The heat of ordinary dwelling-houses is quite enough for such 
plants as we would recommend for general culture in rooms, only, 
in very cold weather, the plants should be removed a little further 
from the windows. The blinds and shutters are usually a suffi- 
cient protection during the night ; and we may remark that plants 
in rooms are more frequently killed by too much heat than by too 
much cold. 

Spring and autumn are the times of the year at which window 
plants require the greatest attention. It is usual to have the 
plants outside the windows even during the night in the summer 
season, and kept in the house both night and day in the winter 
season. In the intermediate seasons of spring and autumn the 
plants are frequently placed in their summer situation during the 
day, and it is desirable that then they should be placed in their 
winter situation during the night. Our climate is so variable at 
those seasons, that we not only have summer during the day, and 
winter during the night, but whole days of summer and winter 
alternating with each other. Sometimes we have warmer days in 
April than in May or June, and occasionally we have more severe 
frosts in the beginning of September, than any which occur again 
till November is nearly over. Now it is not the absolute heat or 
cold, but the rapidity of the transition from one to the other 
which is injurious to plants, and therefore it is absolutely necessary 
for all such as w r ould have their house plants in the perfection oi 
beauty, to attend to those circumstances. This is more especially 
necessary in towns, where the people are much less interested in 
the changes of the weather, and therefore much less observant of 
them than they are in the country ; and we have no doubt that 
more plants are destroyed from want of attention to those varia- 
ble periods of the year than from any other cause. It is a safe 



82 



ladies' flower gardener. 



rule to trust no plant less hardy than a common Geranium out- 
side the window all night, earlier than about the twentieth of 
June, or later than the first of September. JSTo doubt there are 
many nights before the first of these times, and after the latter, 
during which the plants might remain in the open air without 
injury. There is, however, no knowing what a night may bring 
forth at' those inconstant seasons, and therefore the safe plan is 
not to leave the plants to chance. 

When, as often happens, plants get slightly injured by rost, 
cold water should be sprinkled on them before the sun reaches 
them, and this sprinkling ought to be continued as long as any 
appearance of frost remains on the foliage. 

Water is often very injudiciously applied to plants in rooms, 
and the evil arises from falling into the opposite extremes of too 
much and too little. Fear of spoiling the carpet, forgetfulness, 
and sometimes a dread of injuring the plant, are the chief causes 
of an under supply of water. On the other hand, many have a 
notion that such plants should be watered every day, or at stated 
periods, without inquiring whether it be necessary or not. Saucers 
or pans are often placed under flower-pots to prevent the water, 
which escapes, from soiling the apartment, but in these cases the 
saucers should be partly filled with gravel, to prevent the roots 
from being soaked with water, or the water which lodges in the 
saucer should be removed. 

Fanciful and elegant baskets of wire or wicker-work, and plant- 
tables are, perhaps, preferable to common stages. The baskets 
should have a pan, of zinc, copper, or other metal, and over this 
a bottom pierced with holes, or a grating of wire, on which the 
pots are to be placed. The pan is generally about an inch deep, 
and has a plug or other contrivance by which the surplus water 
may be drawn. Plant-tables can be constructed in the same man- 
ner, and admit of an endless variety of forms, according to the 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



83 



taste of the owner. In either of these the pots may be wholly- 
concealed by green moss, or cut paper, so that nothing but the 
plants themselves may appear. 

Water is as essential to the whole plant as it is to the roots, be- 
cause they are liable to collect dirt, and thereby to be injured-; 
they should, therefore, be frequently washed over with a syringe 
having a rose to it, and in order to perform this operation pro- 
perly, the plants must generally be removed to some other apart- 
ment where they should remain till they are dry. In winter this 
operation must be performed in mild weather only ; it should be 
done in an apartment not colder than that in which the plants 
usually stand, and the water should be about milk warm. When 
the plants are in baskets or on tables, they can be removed and 
washed without deranging their order. Plants which have large 
and leathery leaves, such as oranges, pittosporums, camellias, and 
myrtles, may be washed with a sponge, or if very foul they may 
be washed with soap, and the soap carefully removed by pure 
water. Loose dust may be removed by a pair of bellows. At- 
tention to cleanliness greatly increases the vigor of the plant. 

House plants are greatly benefited by being placed out of 
doors in the summer months, especially during gentle showers . 
and such as have no other convenience may advantageously place 
them outside the windows. They may also be syringed and 
w r ashed in this position, and if the owner is not in possession of 
one, a common watering-pot, held high, so that the water may 
fall on the plant with considerable force, is a tolerable substitute. 

Plants respire by their leaves, as animals do by their breathing 
apparatus, and it is on this account that keeping the leaves clean 
is so very essential to the health of plants. Indeed, the dust 
which collects on them, and interrupts their respiration, is one of 
the greatest evils which can befall plants, especially in rooms and 
on balconies in towns. The respiring pores are generally large 



84 



ladies' flower gardener. 



in proportion as the leaves are so ; and this is one of the reasons 
why delicate-leaved plants are not so well adapted for house cul- 
ture as those which have the leaves larger and firmer. 

Light has also a considerable effect in promoting the healthy 
action of leaves, and many plants fold up their leaves in the dark, 
or even when the sky is lowering. This, though it has no resem- 
blance to sleep in animals, has been called the sleep of plants, 
and the curious reader may find an interesting notice of it in the 
" Amcenitates Academicse" of Linnaeus. 

THE SUPPLY OF HOUSE PLANTS. 

There are many ways of doing this ; but to those who have 
the opportunity, and choose to be at the expense, there is, per- 
haps, none better than that of contracting for the year with some 
skilfull and respectable nurseryman ; in this case the plants will 
be attended by the contractor, and kept in the best condition. 
Much pleasure is, however, sacrificed by those who adopt this 
mode, inasmuch as the chief enjoyment of plants arises from the 
feeling that they are the nurslings of our own care ; and it is 
astonishing how strongly the judicious treatment of plants leads 
to judicious management in all other matters. 

Plants, except such as are novelties and sought only by the 
curious, may always be had at moderate prices from respectable 
growers. Co vent Garden furnishes an abundant supply for Lon- 
don, and those who are not so particular may have them of the 
hawkers. In dealing with these people, some care is however 
necessary ; very many of the plants which they offer for sale arc 
thrown away or stolen, and in both cases they are taken up with- 
out any regard to the preservation of the roots, and thus there is 
a considerable chance against their success. Those injured plants 
are made to look healthy for a little time by means of an over 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



85 



supply of water, but they soon languish in the possession of the 
purchasers. 

Another very hazardous mode of purchasing plants is at those 
sales which are very frequently got up in the spring and autumn. 
At these, purchasers have no security that the plant is healthy, 
or that it is what it professes to be, and thus they often pay a 
higher price for a worthless article in a diseased state, than a re- 
gular nurseryman would charge them for a good plant in the 
finest condition. Such a nurseryman has always character at 
stake, but the other parties, generally speaking, have none. 

MANAGEMENT OF BULBS IN GLASSES. 

This is a favorite mode of house culture, and the bulbs best 
adapted for it are hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissus, Van Thol, and 
other tulips, crocus, Persian iris, narcissus, colchicum, Guernsey 
lily, jonquil, and others. 

Spring-flowering bulbs are usually purchased in September, 
and the autumnal ones in July and August, and the largest and 
best-formed bulbs should be chosen ; an abundant supply may 
be obtained at little cost at the seed-shops and nurseries. To be 
blown in winter or spring, the bulbs are placed in water in Octo- 
ber, and so on in succession till February or March ; and for 
autumn and early winter, they are placed in the water in August 
and September. Dark-colored glasses are the best, as they pre- 
vent the light from decomposing the roots of the plants. Rain 
water is preferable to any other, and it should be changed fre- 
quently, not less than once every third or fourth day, to prevent 
its getting putrid ; and in performing this operation care must be 
taken both in withdrawing and in replacing the roots. This is 
necessary only till the flowers have expanded ; for after this the 
plants may be left undisturbed until the flowers have decayed. 



86 



ladies' flower gardener. 



The water which is supplied must not be colder than that which 
is withdrawn, or than the general temperature of the apartment. 
Much heat is not necessary for such plants, because they flower 
better the more slowly their vegetation proceeds. Chimney- 
pieces and other warm situations are not nearly so well adapted 
for those bulbs as stages near the window, or the window-sill 
itself. 

A better mode of growing those bulbs than the common mode 
in glasses, would be in a table with a deep pan, and a wire grat- 
ing on the top. This might be placed about nine inches from the 
bottom of the pan, and the roots arranged on it, the taller ones 
in the center, and those of more lowly growth towards the sides. 
The water in the pan might be drawn off by a plug, and fresh 
water supplied, without in the least disturbing the plants. 

Bulbs may also be grown in fine white sand, kept constantly 
moistened, and in this way very beautiful blooms may be obtained. 

NOSEGAYS AND CUT FLOWERS. 

Though these are very acceptable to most persons, there are 
few who rightly understand the art of keeping them long in a 
fresh state, or of reviving them when they have faded. It is 
true, that when a flower or branch is cut off from its parent plant, 
its support is thereby destroyed ; but still some flowers may be 
kept in great beauty for a much longer period than others, and 
many for a far longer time than is generally done, or even sup- 
posed possible. 

For this purpose, flowers should be gathered early in the 
morning, but not till the dew be nearly dried off them. They 
should be placed in a flat basket, or on a tray, so as not to press 
upon and crush each other ; and they should be neatly cut, and 
not mangled or bruised. When thus gathered, they should be 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



87 



covered with a sheet of paper, and immediately conveyed to the 
apartment where they are to be used, if that apartment be near 
at hand. But if they are to be sent to any distance, they should 
be placed in tin cases, such as botanists use when collecting spe- 
cimens. We have sent flowers, in such cases, for several hundred 
miles, and found most of them in good condition at the end of a 
journey of three or four days' continuance. In this way the 
Dutch florists send specimens of their finest flowers not only to 
England, but to more distant parts of continental Europe. Our 
own florists send to the metropolis, for competition at exhibitions, 
flowers from Cornwall, from the north of England and from Scot- 
land, and they arrive without the least decay. They are placed 
in wooden or tin boxes, having an internal arrangement of small 
phials, fixed under a covering of tin or wood, perforated with 
holes, just large enough to admit the stalks of the flowers, the 
ends of which are placed in the water of the phials, and in this 
way they are conveyed with perfect safety. 

Flowers should not be cut during sunshine, or kept exposed to 
the solar influence ; neither should they be collected in large 
bundles and tied tightly together, as this invariably hastens their 
decay. When in the room where they are to remain, the ends 
of the stalks should be cut clean across with a very sharp knife 
(never with scissors), by which means the tubes through which 
they draw the water are left open, so that the water ascends 
freely, which it will not do if the tubes of the stems are bruised 
or lacerated. An endless variety of ornamental vessels are used 
for the reception of such flowers, and they are all equally well 
adapted for the purpose, so that the stalks are inserted in pure 
water. This water ought to be changed every day, or once in 
two days at the furthest, and a thin slice should be cleanly cut 
off from the end of each stalk every time the water is removed, 
which will occasion fresh action and revive the flowers. Water, 



88 



ladies' flower gardener. 



about milk warm, or containing a small quantity of camphor, will 
sometimes revive decayed flowers. The best method of applying 
this, is to have the camphor dissolved in spirits of wine, for which 
the common camphorated spirits of the druggists' shops will be 
quite sufficient ; and to add a drop or two of this for every half 
ounce of water. A glass-shade is also useful in preserving flowers ; 
and cut flowers ought always to be shaded during the night, and 
indeed at all times when they are not purposely exhibited. The 
following are some of the genera of plants the flowers of which 
remain longest after being cut : — Gnaphalium, Astehna, Heli- 
chrysum, Phcenocoma, Aphelexis, and others, which the French 
have designated " immortal flowers," from remaining unchanged 
by decay, hold the first rank. Next to these come the whole 
natural order, Protectees, many of Graminece, several of Cruciferce, 
several in Phamneacce, several in Cassuvice — the genus Acacia in 
Leguminosce, all Calycanthacece, most of Myrtacece, most of Dip- 
sacece, several of Compositce, most of Ericece — the genera Laven- 
dula, Sideritis and Phlomis, in Zabiatce, all Orobanchece, all 
Plumbaginece, all Amaranthacece, many of Orchidcce, Strelitzia, 
and Heliconia in Musacece. 



INSECTS AND DISEASES OF HOUSE PLANTS. 

Plants in rooms, especially geraniums and roses, are very liable 
to be attacked by aphides. These may be easily removed by 
tobacco smoke or tobacco water ; and where the smell is not 
offensive, smoke blown from a common tobacco pipe is as effec- 
tual as any other method. Camphorated water may be used by 
those who dislike the smell of tobacco. Mildew, occasionally, 
though rarely, attacks house plants. It appears like a white 
powder, and is supposed to consist of minute fungi ; but these 
fungi are not the original disease, but its consequences, and Uieir 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



89 



appearance shows that the plant has been in impure air or other- 
wise improperly treated. Sulphur or camphor will effectually 
remove this mildew ; and a scaly insect of the coccus tribe, which 
appears occasionally on oranges, camellias, and similar plants, 
may be removed by a sponge and water. 

Many persons have a dislike to plants in houses as being un- 
healthy ; and as this dislike is in a great measure groundless, we 
may notice it. Dr. Priestley was the first to show that the leaves 
of plants absorb carbonic acid gas by their upper surfaces, and 
give out oxygen by their under ones, thereby tending to purify 
the air in as far as animal life is concerned ; because carbonic acid 
gas is pernicious to animals, and oxygen is what that life acquires. 
It is in the light, however, that these operations are carried on ; 
for in the dark, plants give out carbon ; and this may be one 
reason why plants grown in the dark have little or no charcoal in 
their substance. It does not appear, however, that any of the 
scentless products given out by plants are injurious to human 
beings ; because those who live among accumulated .plants are 
not less healthy than others ; though many persons feel dislike 
and even pain from the odors of particular plants, in a way not 
very easily accounted for. 

On the Continent in general, and in France and Germany in 
particular, flowers of all sorts, but particularly the most fragrant, 
are admitted into the saloons, chambers, and even bed-rooms of 
people of all classes ; and they, rather than complain of any ill 
effects arising from their presence, complain more of the difficulty 
of procuring them in sufficient abundance. The flowers most in 
demand for the chambers of the French and Germans are, oranges, 
jasmine, carnations, honey-suckle, mignonette, olive, rocket, rose, 
violet, wall-flower, rosemary, stock, lavender, savory, oleander, 
hyacinth, lilac, syringa, heliotrope, narcissus, &c, all sweet-smell-- 



90 



ladies' flower gardener. 



ing flowers ; and these they indulge in to a very considerable 
extent. 

We may safely conclude, then, that plants admitted into rooms 
to the extent that they are in general, can produce no effect in- 
jurious to the health of persons in general, but, on the contrary, 
will afford amusement to the mind and exercise to the body, both 
of which are so necessary towards the enjoyment of good health. 
The mind will be agreeably exercised in contemplating the beauty 
of the flowers, but more so still if the study of their respective 
parts, natures and structures, in a botanical or physiological point 
of view, be at the same time attended to. An agreeable and 
rational exercise will be provided for the body, if the proprietor, 
particularly if of the softer sex, take the entire management of her 
little Window Garden into her own hands. 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



91 



CHAPTER IX. 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



H>\EFORE entering on a description of this apparatus, the 



circumstances under which it was discovered may be 



briefly adverted to. Mr. Ward, the gentleman to whom 
we are indebted for the discovery, is a surgeon, residing in Well- 
close Square, London. From his earliest youth Mr. Ward has 
been attached to botanical pursuits ; but living in a densely popu- 
lated neighborhood, surrounded with manufactories, and enve- 
loped in the smoke of London in its very worst form, he had been 
compelled to give up the cultivation of plants, until the following 
simple incident seemed to point out a mode by which he could 
follow his favorite amusement with some degree of success. He 
had buried the chrysalis of a sphinx in some moist mould, which 
was inclosed in a glass bottle covered with a top. In watching 
the bottle from day to day, he observed that when exposed to 
the warmth of the sun the moisture rose from the mould, and 
became condensed on the inner surface of the glass, and again 
fell back upon the mould during the night, thus keeping up a 
continual moisture in the atmosphere within the glass ; he also ob- 
served about a week prior to the final change of the insect, a 
seedling fern and grass appear on the surface of the mould. 
After having secured the insect, Mr. Ward set himself to observe 

* The materials for this paper are chiefly from Chambers's Edinburgh 
Journal, with some slight additions from Mr. Ellis's paper read to the Bo- 
tanical Society of Edinburgh. 




92 



ladies' flower gardener. 



the development of these plants in this confined situation. He 
placed the bottle outside the window of his study, where the 
plants continued for several years to exhibit a healthy vegetation, 
suggesting at the same time further experiments, which have led 
to a most extraordinary result, when we consider, that by this 
simple application of the laws of nature as regards atmosphere, 
the most forbidding local circumstances may be overcome, and 
that any person, whether inhabiting the most humble or the most 
splendid dwelling, provided it be freely exposed for a few hours 
every day to the sun's light, has it in his power to rear and cul- 
tivate a miscellaneous collection of plants, to enjoy the beauty of 
their appearance, and to watch their progress through all the 
stages of their growth, at an expense so insignificant as to be 
within the means of every man even in very moderate circum- 
stances. 

To do this he must provide an apparatus consisting of a box, 
a stand, and a glass roof, of a size according to his desires and 
means. We shall suppose one is wanted of a small size to stand 
in a window in an apartment of limited dimensions. The stand, 




we will suppose, is one foot ten inches in height, the box which 
is to contain the mould eight inches and a half, and the glass 
frame one foot seven inches and a half ; — in all four feet two in- 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



93 



ches in height by three feet in length and a foot and a half in 
breath. If elegance is aimed at, the box should be made of 
mahogany, and supported on four legs, furnished with movable 
castors ; the box which is to contain the soil, eight and a half in- 
ches in height, should be made of well-seasoned St. Domingo 
mahogany, steeped in Kyan's composition, for a fortnight ; the 
sides, one and a quarter inches thick, mitered and dove-tailed to- 
gether at the corners. The bottom of the box should be Hon- 
duras mahogany, one inch thick, formed of numerous small pieces, 




framed and flush-paneled, and arranged so as best to resist the 
yielding of the wood. To give it greater strength, two cross 
pieces or ties stretch from side to side at equal distance from 
each other ; these are dove-tailed on each side, thus dividing the 
box into three compartments, but leaving open spaces under the 



94 



ladies' flower gardener. 



ties and holes through their centers to permit the moisture to per- 
colate freely through the whole of the mould. The bottom being 
properly fitted, the sides are fixed to it with brass nails — no iron 
being used in any part. When completed and filled with plants, 
the apparatus appears something like the cut on p. 93. 

At the upper edge of the box a groove is sunk to receive the 
lower edge of the glass roof which rests securely in it. This 
groove is lined with brass ; its inner lip is one sixteenth of an 
inch lower than the outer, and at each end is a notch one fifth of 
an inch only above the bottom of the groove to allow the con- 
densed moisture which trickles down the inside of the glass to 
flow back into the mould. 

The frame-work cover of which we have now to speak is made 
of brass, with a door on one side, made to fit close. The glass 
used for it may be of flattened crown-glass ; that for the door 
should be plate-glass. The panes must be fitted in the frames 
with great care, and with a putty specially made for the purpose, 
which should, when dry, receive three coats of paint. Along the 
top of the roof, hooks or brass rods may be placed, from which 
small pots may be suspended. The whole of the frame-work 
should be well fitted, and nicely put together, so as to preclude 
as far as possible all interchange between the air in the case and 
that in the room. 

We now come to the preparation for the plants. Lay the 
bottom of the box with pieces of broken earthenware, to a depth 
of two inches, as an open subsoil. Next, lay a stratum of turfy 
loam one inch deep, and fill in the remainder of the space with 
soil, composed of equal portions of peat and loam, mixed with 
about one-twentieth part of rough white sand, free from iron. 
The artificial garden-plot is now ready to receive the plants. 
Plant these in the usual manner, and then shower over them, with 
a fine rose watering-pot, from three to four gallons of water, till 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



95 



the soil be pretty well saturated, and the liquid begins to run off 
by the two openings in the bottom. After draining thus for 
twenty-four hours, cork up the holes, place the glass-case on the 
box, and the operation will be finished. 

After the first preparation, the plants require little or no care ; 
the case need only be opened for the removal of dead leaves, or 
for a little trimming, when required. Plants in open flower-pots 
are exposed to the vicissitudes of change of climate, and require 
constant watering ; but the plants in these cases seem to be in- 
dependent of any change of temperature in the air, and water 
themselves. The moisture rises by the sun's influence from the 
moistened earth, cherishes the leaves of the plants in its aerial 
condition, and during the cool of night falls to the earth again 
like rain or dew. In this manner there is a constant succession 
of rising and falling of moisture, in imitation of the great processes 
of nature, daily going on in the fields around us. The plant-case 
is a little world in itself, in which vegetation is supported solely 
by the resources originally communicated to it. 

Not the least remarkable part in the economy of the case is 
the preservation of atmospheric purity. To all who reflect for 
the first time on this subject, it will seem incomprehensible how 
the plants can possibly thrive and blossom without the occasional 
interchange of fresh air with the atmosphere. This certainly does 
appear extraordinary, yet it is ascertained by experiment that no 
such reinvigoration is requisite. To account for the phenomena, 
it will be necessary to explain the constitution of atmospheric air, 
and the means adopted by nature for its purification. 

Air consists of three gases in close mechanical union — nitrogen, 
oxygen and carbonic acid, in the proportion of about 79 of nitro- 
gen, 20 oxygen, and 1 of carbonic acid, in 100 parts of pure air. 
In this mixed composition, the essential element for the support 
of respiration in both animals and plants, and also for combustion, 



96 



ladies' flower gardener. 



is the oxygen, the nitrogen being little else than a diluent to 
modify the strength of the oxygen. It was long believed by men 
of science that plants possessed the power of exuding oxygen, 
and so formed a prime agent for restoring vitiated air to purity. 
Later investigations, however, chiefly by French chemists, have 
made it evident that plants have no such power, unless when 
placed under the influence of the sun's rays, or, in other words, 
that solar light is the grand cleanser of the atmosphere, and with- 
out which both plants and animals languish and die. With 
respect to plants in particular, it is ascertained that, while inhaling 
oxygen and expiring carbonic acid, their leaves possess the 
remarkable property, in conjunction with the sun's light, of 
re-transforming the carbonic acid into oxygen. At night, when 
the light of day has departed, the expired carbonic acid may be 
detected in the neighborhood of plants ; and hence one cause of 
injury to health by breathing night air ; but when the morning 
sun again bursts upon the scene, a great chemical process com- 
mences in the atmosphere — the carbonic acid is decomposed, 
oxygen is evolved, and all nature rejoices in a recreation of its 
appropriate nourishment. 

A question will here readily occur — what species of plants are 
best adapted for these domestic greenhouses ? We are fortu- 
nately enabled to answer this inquiry by referring to a learned 
paper on the subject by Mr. Ellis, which was read to the Botani- 
cal Society of Edinburgh, January 13, 1839, and afterwards 
published in the Gardener's Magazine, and also as a separate 
pamphlet. According to this gentleman's statement, the plants 
most suitable are " those which partake largely of a cellular 
structure, and possess a succulent character, and especially those 
which have fleshy leaves ; whilst, on the contrary, the continued 
humidity is unfavorable to the development of flowers of most 
exogenous plants, except such as naturally grow in moist and 
shady situations." Plants, therefore, which have to grow and 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



97 



bloom in cavernous and moist situations, or in moist and warm 
climates, are best adapted for these cases. However, within this 
class of vegetables there are many beautiful and highly luxuriant 
plants, which it would afford no small pleasure to contemplate. 
The following is a list of plants from various countries, which 
were set in a box, under Mr. Ellis's directions, and examined from 
nine to twelve months afterwards : 



BOTANICAL NAMES". 

Chamae rops humilis 
Cenliana verna 



COUNTRY. 

Italy. Sicily, Spain 
End and 



-fdiantum Capillus Veneris England 

Primula farinosa Scotland 

Primula scotica Scotland 

Ferbaseum Mycom Scotland 

^udrosace villosa Scotland 

Chamae rops Palmetto Carolina 

Dionae'a Museipula Carolina 

Sarracen/a purpurea Carolina 

Epigae'a repens Carolina 

Testudinaria elephantipes Cape of Good Hope 

Jl loe retusa Cape of Good Hope 

.Rhododendron chrysanthum Siberia 

ChamTecistus Austria 

Cycas revoluta China 

Aepenthes distillatoria Ceylon 

Cypripedium venustum in- Nepal 

signe Nepal 

Agave geminiflora Mexico 

*Goodyera discolor Mexico 

*£chinocactus multiplex Mexico 

^peruviana Mexico 

myriacantha Mexico 

*formosa Mexico 

ttoni Mexico 

Candida Mexico 

Epiphyllum truncatum Brazil 

Cereus rlagelliformis Peru 

Lycopodium stoloniferum Cuba 



REMARKS. 

Increased l-4th its original 
size 

Flowered, but no difference 
in size 

Increased 1-Sth 

Flowered ; atmosphere ra- 
ther damp for it 

Flowered ; atmosphere ra- 
ther damp for it 

Increased i-Sth 

Flowered ; not very healthy 

Increased i-3d 

Made 1-Sth 

Increased 4 times its origi- 
nal size 
Increased one-half 
Made a shoot 16 inches long 
Made 1 -3rd, showing Mower 
Increased one-half [spikes 
Increased l-3d 
Increased 1-Sth 
Increased 2-3ds 
Increased l-5th 
Increased l-4th 
Increased l-3d 
No perceptible difference 
Increased one-half 
Increased one-half 
Increased one-half 
Increased l-3d 
Increased 1 -4th 
Increased one-half 
Increased 2-3ds 
Increased one-half 



Those marked thus * are growing in fancy j 
the roof of the plant-ca 

5 ■ ,-. 



^ ery luxuriant 

>ots, and suspended from 
se. 



98 



ladies' flower gardener. 



The alternate action of vitiation and purification is emphatically 
described as follows by Mr. Ellis, in the pamphlet before us : — 
" Under a bright sunshine, the two processes by which carbonic 
acid is alternately formed and decomposed go on simultaneously ; 
and their necessary operation, in as far as regards the condition 
of the air, is that of counteracting each other. Hence, though 
both may be continually exercised in favorable circumstances, the 
effects of neither on the atmosphere can be ascertained by ordi- 
nary means ; and, consequently, though, in the experiments of 
De Saussure with common air, the production and decomposition 
of carbonic acid by plants in sunshine must have been continually 
going on, yet, in all the analysis which he made, the air was 
found unchanged, either in purity or volume ; in other words, the 
processes of formation and decomposition of this acid gas exactly 
counterbalanced each other. 

" Of the two processes which have now been described (con- 
tinues our authority), each may be considered as in its nature and 
purpose quite distinct from the other ; hence their efforts may be 
readily distinguished ; neither do they necessarily interfere, when 
actually working together. The first or deteriorating process, in 
which oxygen gas is consumed, goes on at all times and in all 
circumstances when vegetation is active. It requires always a 
suitable temperature in which to display itself ; and when that 
temperature falls below a certain point, which is very variable in 
regard to different plants, the process is more or less completely 
suspended, again to be renewed when the temperature shall re- 
turn. This conversion of oxygen into carbonic acid is as neces- 
sary to the evolution of the seed as to the growth of the plant, 
and is all that is required for germination. But the plant requires 
something more ; for if light be excluded, vegetation proceeds 
imperfectly, and the plant does not then acquire its proper color, 
and other active properties which it ought to have. The chief 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



99 



organs by which the consumption of oxygen gas is effected are 
the leaves ; and its purpose, in great part at least, seems to be 
that of producing some necessary change in the sap during its 
transmission through those organs, on its way from the vessels of 
the wood to those of the inner bark, whereby it may be rendered 
fit for the purposes of nutrition and growth. In its nature and 
object, therefore, as well as in the specific change which it pro- 
duces in the air, this process closely resembles the function of 
respiration in animals, and may thus with propriety be deemed a 
physiological process. The second, or purifying process, in which 
oxygen gas is evolved, differs in all respects from that which has 
just been described. It is in a great measure independent of 
temperature ; at least it proceeds in temperatures too low to sup- 
port vegetation, provided light be present — an agent not required 
for germination, nor essential to vegetable development. The 
organs by which this process acts on the air are, as before, the 
leaves ; not, however, by changing the qualities of the sap in the 
vessels of those organs, but by producing changes in the chromule, 
or colorable matter, in their cells, to which it imparts color and 
other active properties. In doing this, it does not convert the 
oxygen gas of the air into carbonic acid, but, by decomposing that 
acid gas, restores to the air the identical portion of oxygen of 
which the former process had deprived it. The former process, 
carried on by the agency of the oxygen gas of the air, was essen- 
tial to living action, and affected the w T ell-being of the whole 
plant ; that exercised by the agency of light is not necessary to 
life, is local, not general in its operation, and is capable of pro- 
ceeding in circumstances and under conditions incompatible with 
living action. By withdrawing the air altogether, or depriving it 
of oxygen gas, vegetation soon ceases through the whole plant ; 
but the exclusion of light from any part of the plant affects that 
part only ; and even the total exclusion of that agent only de- 



100 



ladies' flower gardener. 



prives the plant of certain properties necessary to its perfection, 
but not essential to its life. These differences in the processes by 
which oxygen gas is alternately consumed and evolved, during 
the vegetation of plants in sunshine, are so manifest, both in their 
nature and effects, as to satisfy the ascription of a name to the 
latter process distinct from that given to the former. It might, 
perhaps, be denominated the chemical process, in contradistinc- 
tion to that named physiological. 

" It would contribute much, we think, to simplify our inquiries 
concerning vegetation, to bear in mind these distinctions ; to con- 
sider the one process as accomplished by the agency of the air, 
and essential to the life and growth of the plant ; the other, as 
subordinate, depending on the agency of light, and though neces- 
sary to the perfection of vegetation, yet not essential to its exist- 
ence. In this manner each process may be followed out sepa- 
rately, both in regard to its immediate effects and remoter con- 
sequences, without clashing with the other ; and the apparently 
discordant and even contradictory phenomena which on a first 
view they seem to exhibit, may be reconciled, and considered, not 
Jess in theory than in fact, as conspiring together to form one 
harmonious and perfect whole." 

After these explanations, little need be added respecting the 
supply of pure air to domestic greenhouses. The deterioration 
of the atmosphere in the case is daily counteracted by an oppo- 
site process of purification, so that amidst the vicissitudes of per- 
petual change, the air is maintained in a state of nearly uniform 
composition and purity, and serves over and over again for all the 
purposes of vegetation. It may, however, be stated, to prevent 
misconception, that the more pure the air of the apartment, the 
plants will have the better chance of thriving, because there must 
necessarily be an interchange to some extent betwixt the air of 
the room and the case, in consequence of the daily expansion 



DOMESTIC GREENHOUSES. 



101 



from heat, and nightly condensation from cold. This interchange 
will be effected by the minute crevices in the apparatus, and 
therefore requires no special provision. 



102 



LADlES f FLOWER GARIJEKEK, 



CHAPTER X 

MONTHLY NOTICES. 

RECAPITULATION of the work which each month 
presents to the gardener's notice will be useful. By 
occasionally glancing over the Monthly Notices, the me- 
mory is refreshed ; and it will be found that even the three winter 
months allow the young gardener no remission from labor. 
There is something to be done in every week in the year — some- 
thing to be attended to, which amuses the mind, interests the 
imagination, and benefits the general tone of mental and physical 
health. 

JANUARY. I 

Let your lawn and grass walks be kept neat and smooth, by 
rolling, this month ; and if any part of the grounds require fresh 
turf, this is the season for cutting and laying it down. If you 
live in the neighborhood of a common, that is the best ground 
for cutting turf, as the herbage is short, and free from nettles, 
docks, &c. Lay it down firm and even, allowing for the sinking 
of the newly-laid earth, about an inch or two. Roll it well, after 
having laid down the turf. 

Keep the gravel walks also from weeds and moss, and roll 
them in dry weather. If you attempt to roll gravel in wet wea- 
ther, the gravel clings to the roller. 

Dig the clumps or spots where you mean to plant evergreens, 
in February and March, that the ground may be trenched in 



MONTHLY NOTICES. 



103 



readiness. The frost of this month will render newly-dug earth 
more friable, and the snow will enrich it. 

If the weather is very settled and mild, you may still plant 
out hardy deciduous shrubs, such as sweetbriars, double 
bramble, double-blossomed cherry, dwarf almond, jasmines, 
honeysuckles, roses, lilacs, laburnums, guelder rose,. Spirgea frutex, 
mezereons, &c Transplant each shrub with a good ball of earth 
round its roots. 

Prune flowering shrubs now, where they require it, with a 
sharp knife, not with shears. When I say " flowering shrubs," 
I do not mean shrubs in flower, but shrubs that do flower. 

Transplant suckers from the hardy flowering shrubs, if they 
have not been done before. Take them up with good roots, and 
support them neatly with stakes. 

Cuttings of young shoots of hardy deciduous shrubs may be 
planted in mild weather, to root, and form good plants in the 
autumn. Layers may be also formed. 

Protect all the choicer kinds of flowering shrubs, and all cut- 
tings of every kind, from severe frosts, by spreading litter over 
them. 

Plant tulips now — always providing the weather is mild — to 
blow late in the year ; but they will not be so handsome as those 
which were planted again in September and October. 

Plant any ranunculuses, anemones, &c, you may have out of 
the ground, to come in late blowing ; but, like the tulips, they 
will not bear such fine blooms. Protect everything from severe 
weather, as well as you can, this month, particularly your choicer 
sorts of bulbs, and tuberous-rooted perennials. 

FEBRUARY. 

February is the first spring month, and the parterre will begin 
to make gradual approaches to gaiety and life. The anemones, 



104 



ladies' flower gardener. 



hepaticas, &c, will now bud and flower, if the weather is genial ; 
and the crocus and snowdrop will put forth their blooms to meet 
the sun on his returning march. 

About the end of this month, you may begin to sow the hardy 
annuals. I prefer April, but it may not be convenient always to 
wait so long ; therefore sow now the seeds of hawkweed, lavatera, 
Venus's looking-glass, Venus's navelwort, candytuft, larkspurs, 
lupines, convolvulus, flos Adonis, dwarf lychnis, nigelia, annual 
sunflowers, &c. 

This month, you may plant and transplant, fearlessly, all hardy, 
fibrous-rooted flowering perennials and biennials, such as saxifrage, 
gentianella, hepaticas, violets, primroses of all sorts, polyanthuses, 
double daisies, thrift, <fcc. ; rose campions, rockets, campanulas, 
sweet-williams, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, carnations, pinks, 
monk's-hood, perennial asters and sunflowers, &c. 

Plant cuttings of roses, honeysuckles, and jasmines. 

If the weather is mild, you may transplant many kinds of 
evergreen shrubs, such as phillyreas, alaternuses, laurels, laurus- 
tinus, pyracanthas, cistuses, &c. Let there be a ball of earth 
round their roots, when you take them out of the ground. 

If box edging is required, plant it now ; water it, and the plants 
will soon root. 

Dig the borders, carefully and lightly, with your garden fork ; 
make the garden look neat, and free from weeds ; clear away 
dead leaves ; sweep the lawn and walks : and let spring advance 
in its proper order. 

MARCH. 

Now plant away. Evergreens cannot be moved at a better 
period. Deciduous flowering shrubs may also be still planted, 
such as Althaea frutex, syringas, roses, honeysuckles, mezereons, 



MONTHLY NOTICES. 



105 



sumach, laburnums, lilacs, jasmines, candleberry myrtles, guelder 
roses, d:c. 

Where the borders require filling up, the following plants may- 
still be moved, but do it early in this month : — - 

Lychnises, campanulas, Canterbury bells, tree primroses, 
rockets, sweet-williams, wallflowers, columbines, monk's-hood, 
rose campions, perennial asters and sunflowers, foxgloves, <fec. 

Sow perennial and biennial flower seeds about the last week 
in this month. Stake your hyacinths, when the flower stems are 
tall. 

Plant out layered carnations of last year, into the places where 
they ought to remain. 

Give fresh earth to any plants in pots, such as carnations, pinks, 
auriculas, double sweet-williams, double stock gillyflowers, rock- 
ets, etc. 

Sow annuals of all hardy kinds. 

Transplant any hardy roses, which you may wish should blow 
late in the year. 

Plant box, for edgings, still; and roll the lawn and grass walks. 
Transplant any tenderer kinds of annuals which you may have 
been at the pains of raising m, or procuring from, a hot-bed. 
Keep the garden quite free from weeds and dead leaves. 

APRIL. 

Now place sticks to every plant or stalk requiring support. 
Fix the sticks, or light iron rods, firmly in the ground ; and tie 
the stems to each stick neatly, in two or three places. 

Some evergreens may yet be removed, as laurels, laurustinus, 
Portugal laurel, cistuses, arbutus, magnolias, pyracanthas, etc. 

Propagate auriculas, by slipping off their suckers and offsets, 
this month. 

5* 



106 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Sow carnation and polyanthus seeds still. Sow, also, perennial 
and biennial seeds. 

Where any perennial or biennial fibrous-rooted flowers are 
wanted, transplant them only in the first week of this month, and 
they must have each a good ball of earth attached to them ; but 
this work should be completed in February, or March at farthest. 

Every sort of annual may now be sown. 

Take care of your hyacinths, tulips, ranunculuses, and ane- 
mones now, for they will be hastening into bloom. 

Place your auriculas, hyacinths, <fec, which may be in pots, in 
a sheltered place, during heavy rains or winds ; and shelter those 
flowers which are in the borders as well as you can. Trim them 
from dead leaves. 

Keep your lawn and grass walks nicely mown and rolled, and 
your borders free from weeds and rubbish. 

MAY. 

Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings. 
Propagate double wall-flowers by slips of the young shoots of 
the bead. 

Sow annuals for succession ; such as sweet-peas, nasturtiums, 
lavatera, lupines, flos Adonis, &c. 

Take up those hyacinths, tulips, &c. which have done flower- 
ing, and dry them in the shade to put away. 

Weeds grow quickly now : hoe them up wherever you see 
them. Support all flowers with sticks ; train them upright. Clear 
away all the dead leaves from your carnations, and gently stir 
the earth round them with your smallest trowel. 

Look round the borders now, and take off irregular shoots. 



MONTHLY 'NOTICES. 



107 



JUNE. 

Propagate carnations by layers and pipings. Propagate double 
sweet-williams and pinks by layers and cuttings, or slips. 

Propagate perennial fibrous-rooted plants by cuttings of the 
stalks. 

Transplant the large annuals from the seedling bed to the 
places where they are to remain. Let this be done in showery 
weather, if possible. 

Take up all bulbs, ranunculuses, and anemone roots, &c, as the 
flowers and leaves decay, 

Water the delicate plants, if the weather proves dry : give a 
moderate watering every evening, but never in the heat of the 
day. 

Sow yet some hardy annuals, such as ten-week stocks, virgin 
stock, &c. 

Plant out China-asters, Chinese hollyhocks, ten-week stocks, 
large convolvolus, &c, but let each root have a ball of earth 
round it. 

Examine the perennial and biennial plants, to cut off all dead, 
broken, or decaying shoots. Trim the African and French mari- 
golds from their lower straggling shoots, that they may present a 
neat, upright appearance. Trim the chrysanthemums, which are 
apt to branch too near the root, and stake them neatly. 

Plant out carnations and pink seedlings into their proper places. 

Keep everything just moderately moist, if there is a long 
drought in this month. 

JULY. 

You may lay carnations and double sweet-williams still ; but 
let it be done before the end of the second week in this month. 
Propagate pinks by slips and pipings. 



108 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Transplant the seedling auriculas which were sown last year, 
as also the seedling polyanthus. 

Transplant the perennial and biennial seedlings which were not 
done last month, to remain till October. 

Take up all bulbs as fast as they decay their leaves. If this 
month prove hot and dry, place your potted carnations in a shel- 
tered situation, and keep them just moist. 

Support flowering shrubs and plants, and cut away decayed 
stems. Keep the borders clean. Mow the lawn and grass walks. 
Plant autumnal bulbs. 

AUGUST. 

You may now begin to propagate some double-flowered and 
approved fibrous-rooted plants the end of the month, if they have 
done flowering — such, for instance, as the double rose campion, 
catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double rocket, double ragged 
robin, bachelor's buttons, gentianella, polyanthuses, auriculas, &c. 

Sow auricula and polyanthus seed on a warm, d<y day ; and 
remove carnation layers to some place where they may remain 
till October to gain strength. 

Sow seeds of bulbs. 

Sow anemone and ranunculus seed. 

Remove all bulbs which have done flowering. 

Cut and trim edgings of box. Clip holly, yew, and privet 
hedges. - 

Gather flower seeds. 

Plant autumnal bulbs, if any are still above ground, such as 
colchicums, autumnal narcissus, amaryllis, and autumn crocus. 

Trim the flower plants ; mow the lawn and grass walks, and 
keep every department in neat order. 



MONTHLY NOTICES. 



109 



SEPTEMBER. 

Transplant, in any moist or showery weather this month, the 
perennial and biennial seedlings to their proper situations, with a 
ball of earth round their roots. 

Propagate fibrous-rooted plants. 

Prepare the spots where you mean to deposit anemone and 
ranunculus roots any time between the end of this month and the 
end of October ; and dig all beds and borders which are vacant, 
to prepare them also for receiving roots and plants next month. 

Transplant peonies, flag irises, monk's-hood, fraxinella, and 
such like plants, to part their roots and remove each root to its 
destined position. 

Transplant evergreens. 

Plant cuttings of honey-suckles, and other shrubs. 
Plant hyacinth and tulip roots for early spring bloom. 
Plant box by slips or roots. 

Mow grass lawn and walks. Clear away flower stems, and 
trim flowering plants. 

Sow seeds of bulbous flowers, if not done last month. 

OCTOBER. 

This is a very busy month ; for the garden should now be 
cleared and arranged for the season. 

Transplant all sorts of fibrous-rooted perennial and biennial 
plants now where they are intended to remain. 

Put the bulbs into the ground again; and transplant the 
different layered plants into their respective places. 

Prune flowering shrubs of all sorts. Plant and transplant all 
hardy deciduous shrubs, and their suckers. 



110 



ladies' flower gardener. 



Dig up and part the roots of all flowers which require so doing, 
and replant them. 

Plant cuttings of honeysuckles, laurels, &c. 

Take up the roots of dahlias, and put them carefully away till 
May. 

Trim evergreens. 

Plant box edgings ; cut away the long, sticky roots, and trim 
the tops even. 

Mow grass walks and lawns, and weed gravel walks. 

NOVEMBER. 

Prepare compost for a new year by raking dead leaves, soil, 
sand, &c., in a heap, to turn well over occasionally. Pour the 
brine, soap-suds, &c, from the house over it. 

Transplant still all hardy kinds of flowering shrubs, suckers, &c. 

Clear the borders from dead annuals, leaves, stumps, &c. ; 
shelter the choice bulbs and double-flowering plants. 

DECEMBER. 

Take care of every thing. Protect the more delicate roots 
from severe frost, by strewing ashes, sand, or litter over them. 
Prune shrubs, and dig between them. 

If the weather is open, you may still plant hardy sorts of 
flowering shrubs. 



INDEX. 

Aconites .. .. .. .. .. .. 33,34,45 

Alaturnus, Layers of . . . . . . . . . . 74 

Amelioration of Soils . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 

Amaryllis . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 

Annuals .. .. .. .. .. .. 20,56 

self-sown . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 

to sow . . . . . . . . . . 58 

how to water . . . . . . . . • • 58 

when to sow . . . . . . . . . . 58 

how to transplant . . . . . . . . • • 58 

to trim . . . . . . . . . . 60 

List of less tender . . . . . . . . . . 60 

List of hardy .. .. .. .. .. ..61 

Ants, to destroy . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 

Anemone . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 

April, List of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 22 

Monthly Notices of . . . . . . . . . . 105 

Arrangement of Shrubs . . . . . . . . . . 69 

of Flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 

Arabian Jasmine . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 

Arbutus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 

Arbor Vitae .. •• .. .. .. .. 74 

Arsenic Water, to use . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 

Aspect for Flowers . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Auriculas . . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 45 

Compost for . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Austrian Briar . . . . . . . , , . 65 

August, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. .. 108 

List of Perennials for .. . .. .. ..23 

Avroncator .. .. .. .. .. 16 

Ayrshire Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 



112 



INDEX. 



Beds, planting . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 

Beds of Roses . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 

Belladonna .. .. .. .. .. .. 39 

Biennials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 

Propagation of . . . . . . . . 48, 52 

Seeds, when to sow . . . . . . . . . . 49 

to shelter . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 

when to transplant . . . . . . ... . . 34 

List of hardy . . . . . . . . . . 49 

Blight « .". ■ [BBBBiSfilB •• •• vV-'tS 

Brine .. .. .. .. .. .. ..50.51 

Bulbs .. .. .. .. .. ..36 

soil for . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 

when to take up . . . . . . . . . . 37 

autumn-flowering . . . . . . . . . . 37 

Seed of ; .. .. ;^v'^ iv 38 

to replant .. .. .. .. .. .. 40 

arrangement of . . . . . . . . ' . . . . 40 

List of .. .. .. .. .. .. 41 

Cabbage Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 

Camellia Japonica .. .. .. .. .. 7L 

Canterbury Bells . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 

Carnations . . . . ... . . . . .. 28, 50, 53 

China Asters . . .. .. .. .. .. ..56 

to train . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 

Chrysanthemums . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 

Cistus, Gum .. .. ... .. .. .. 71 

Clay, how to improve . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 

Clarkias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 

Climbing Rose .. .. .. .. .. ..66 

Colchicums, Soil for .. .. .. .. .. 39 

when to plant .. .. .. .. ..40 

Compost for Flowers .. .. .. .. .. 13 

Convolvulus .. .. .. .. .. .. ..58 

Creepers, as decorations . . . . . . . . . . 18 

Crocus . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 

autumnal, when to plant . . . . . . . . 40 

Cuttings .. .. . .. .. .. ..31 



IXDEX. 113 

Cutting, of Perennials . . . . . . . . • ♦ 28 

Protection for . . . . ..... 54 

of Shrubs, when to make . . . . . . . • 72 

Dahlias . V .. .. ... .. ... •• 30 

Daisies, double .. .. .. .. •• 34 

Damask Rose . . . . . . . . • • 63 

Dead leaves, to collect . . . . . . . . • • 14 

Deciduous, term explained . . . . • . . . 27 

Shrubs, List of . . . . . . . . . . 72 

December, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. .. .. 109 

Devices for training Jasmine . , . . . • • . 68 

Digging, when to be done . . ... . . • . . . 14 

Domestic Greenhouses .. .. . . .. 91 

Double-flowering Plants . . • • . . . . 35 

to shelter . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 

Dress, working .. .. .. .. .. ..17 

Earwigs, to destroy . . . . . . . . . . 25 

Employment in Summer . . . • . . . . . . 31 

Evergreens . . . . . . . . . . • • 69 

how and when to transplant . . . . . . . . 70 

how to layer . . . . . . . . . . 71 

to make Cuttings of . . . . . . . . . . 72 

to prune .. .. .. .. .. .. 75 

Remarks on . . . . . . . . . . 71 

List of. .. .. .. .. .. .. 74 

February, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. .. ,.103 

list of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 22 

Fences against Hares and Rabbits . . . . . . . . 24 

Fibrous root, term explained . . . . . . . . 27 

Flowers, Aspect for . . . . . . . . . . 14 

how to arrange . . . . . . . . . . 18 

Flower Seeds, how to sow .. .. .. ..38 

self-sown, how to treat . . . . . . . . 57 

Flowering Shrubs, how to plant . . . . . . . . 69 

Fly, to destroy the Green . . . . . . . . . . 66 

Gardening, remarks on . . . . . . . . . . 10 

Gardens, notices of old English .. .. .. .. 10 

Garden, general remarks upon the . . . . . . 13 



114 



INDEX. 



Garden, laying out a . » . . . . . . . . 18 

Soil for . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Compost for . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Tools necessary for . . . . . . . . . . 16 

Working Dress for .. .. .. .. ..17 

Gentian . . . . . ; . . . . . . . . ?4 

Gentianella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 

Gillyflowers .. .. .. ... .. .. 57 

Golden Rod .. .. .. .. .. .. ..34 

Gravel Walks .. .. .. .. .. . . 15 

Green Fly, to destroy . . . . . . . . . . 66 

Ground, management of . . . . . . . . 14 

to prepare for Seeds . . . . . . . , 57 

Gum Cistus .. .. .. .. .. .. 71 

Guernsey Lily . . . . . . . . . . 39 

Hand-glasses, substitute for . . . . . . . . . . 54 

Hares, to protect against . . . . . * . . . . 24 

Hepaticas . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 

Herbaceous, term explained . . . . . . . . 27 

Hollyhocks . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 

Honesty .. .. .. .. .. .. ..50 

Honeysuckles, to increase . . . . . . . . . . 31 

Hyacinths . . . . . . . . . . . , . . 38 

Improvement of Soils . . . . . . . . . . 14 

Irises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 

flag-leaved . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 

Iron Rods for Flowers . . . . . . . . . , 26 

Stakes for Roses . . . . . . . . . . 64 

January, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. .. .. 102 

list of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 22 

Jasmines .. „. .. .. .. .. ..67 

to increase . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 

to renew the Soil for . . . . . . . . . . 68 

to prune . . . . . . . . . . ... 68 

devices for training . . . . . . . . . . 68 

Jonquils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 

July, Monthly Notice for . . . . . . . . . 107 

List of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 23 



INDEX. 115 

June 5 Monthly Notice for . . . . . . • • « • 107 

List of Perennials for . . . . • • . . 23 

Knob-rooted Plants . . . . . . . . . • 30 

Ladies' Garden Tools . . • . . . . . 16 

working Dress . . . . • • • • . . 17 

Lawn . . . . . . • • . • . • . . 15 

Laurel . . . • • • . . • • 70 

Laurel, Portugal . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 

Laurestinas . . . . . . . . . . . . • 70 

Layering, when to be done . . . . . . . . 54 

Layers of Biennials . . . . . . . . . . 52 

of Evergreens .. .. . . .. . . ..71 

of Alaturnus, &c, when to be done . . . . . . 72 

Lilies of the Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 

Management of . ... . . . . . . . . 39 

Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 

Guernsey and Belladonna . . . . . . . . 39 

Linen as a covering, advantages of . . . . . . . . 54 

List of Flowers for each month . . . . . . . . 22 

hardy Perennials . . . . . , . . . . 32 

Roses .. .. .. .. .. 66 

hardy climbing ditto .. .. „. .. ..67 

bulbous and tuberous-rooted Flowers . . . . . . 41 

hardy Biennials . . . . . . . . . . 49 

London Pride . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 

Lychnis .. .. . . . . . .. 34 

double scarlet . . .... . . . . 28, 35 

Lychnidea . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 

March. Monthly Notice for .. . . .. .. 104 

List, of Perennials for . . . . . . . . . . 22 

Martagons . . . . . . . . , . . . 40 

Marigolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 

May, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. .. 106 

List of Perennials for . . . . . , . . . . 22 

Michaelmas Daisy . . . . . . ..... 34 

Mignionette . . . . . . . . . . 59 

Mildew .. .. .. .. .. .. 26 

M onthly Rose . . . . . . ' . . . . . . 65 



116 



INDEX, 



Monthly Rose, noticed . . . . . . . . . » 78 

. Remarks on . . . . . . . . 14 

Moss Roses . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 

Narcissus . . . . . . . , . • . . 37 

yellow autumnal . . . . . . . * . . 37 

Neatness essential in a Garden . » . » . » . . . . 26 

Ni^ht Stock . . .... . . . . . . 52 

November, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. 110 

List of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 24 

October, Monthly Notice for . . . . . . . . 109 

List of Perennials for . . . • . . . . 24 

Offsets of Perennials and Biennials . . . . . . . . 34 

Bulbs .. .. .. .. .. .. 37 

Oil paper frames . . . . . . . . . . 54 

Orange Lilies . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 

Orchis tribe . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 

Pansies . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 

Peonies . . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 34 

Perpetual Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 

Perennials . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 

how to sow . . ... . . . . . . 28 

how to propagate . . . . . . . . . . 28 

how to divide . . . . . . . . . . 30 

when to add soil to . . . . . . . . 30 

list of hardy . . . . . . . . . . 32 

Persecarias . . . .. ^ . . . . . . . . . . 56 

Pinks .. .. .. .. .. .. 28 

general management of . . . . . . . . 29, 53 

Pickle and Brine good for Flowers . . . . . . . . 51 

Pipings, when to make . . . . . . . . . . 54 

how to make . . . . . . . . . 53 

Phyllerias . . . . . . . . . . . . 70, 72 

Planting Beds . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 

Shrubs, method of . . . . . . . . 69, 70 

Polyanthus . . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 34 

Portugal Laurel .. .. .. .. ..71 

Primroses . • . • . . . . . . . • 30 

Pi opagating Biennials .. .. .. .. ..52 



INDEX. 



117 



Pyramid of Roses . . . . . . . . . . 64 

Pyracantha ..' .. .. ..70 

Qualities of Pinks .. .. .. 29 

Rabbits, to guard against . . . . •« . . . . 24 

Ranunculus .. . . . . 46 

Remarks on Gardens .. . . .. .. ..13 

Rockets, double . . . . . . . . . . . 28 

Rods, for Flowers, Iron . . . * . . . . 26 

Root-bouse, to construct a . . . . . . . . . . 19 

Rhododendrons . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 

Roses .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 63 

monthly . . . . . . . . . . 65 

Remarks on . . .. .. .. .. 15 

damask . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 

cabbage . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 

moss . . . . . . . . . . 64 

standard . . . . . . . . . • . . 65 

double yellow .. .. .. .. .. ..65 

Austrian .. .. .. .. 65 

perpetual, or four-season . . . . . . 65 

Ayrshire . . . . . . . . . . , 66 

Lady Banks . . . . . . . . . • 66 

climbing . . • . . . . . . . . . 66 

soil for . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 

when and how to prune . . . . . . . . 64 

to layer . , . . . . . . . . 64 

disease of . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 

pyramids and beds of . . . . . . 64 

list of . .. .. .. .. ii \ 66, 67 

Rosa hybrida rnultiflora . . . . . . . . 66 

Rustic stages .. .. .. .. .. .. 15 

advantages of .. .. .. .. .. ..16 

Salt, observations on . . . . . . . . • . 39 

water for cuttings . . . . . . . • . . 55 

Sand, good effects of . . . . . . . . . . 14, 21 

Saxifrage . . . . . . . . . . . . 30, 34 

Seed to sow, when and how, Perennials . . . . • • 27, 28 

Bulbs .. .. . .. ..37 



118 



INDEX. 



Seed, Biennials . . . . . . . . . . 48, 49 

Annuals . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 

how to prune .. .. .. .. ... r>9 

when to gather . . . . . . . . . . 52 

Seedlings, when to remove . . . . . . . 28 

Pink and Carnation .. .. .. . • ..27 

Seedling-bed, to protect the .. .. .. .. 49 

September, Monthly Notice for .. .. .. ..109 

List of Perennials for . . . . . . . . 24 

Shrubs, arrangement of . . . . . . . . . . G9 

how to plant .. ... .. .. .. 70 

when to transplant .. .. .. .. ..70 

to make cuttings of . . . . * . . . . . . 72 

when to take suckers off . , . . • • . . 72 

to prune . . . . . . . • . . . . 75 

notices of several . . . . . . 70 

list of deciduous . . . . . . . . . . 71 

evergreen . . . . . . . . . . 74 

Slipping, how to perform . . . . . . . . . . 54 

Snails, to destroy . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 

Snowdrops . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 

Soapsuds, to use . . . . . * . . . . 14, 26 

Soils, improvement of . . . . . . . . . . 13 

amelioration cf .. .. .. ..21 

Stages, rustic . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 

Staking plants .. .. .. .. .. ..31 

Stocks, ten-week . . . • . • . . 56. 59 

Slock, gillitlower .. .. .. .. .. ..50 

night >* .• Ti fctffF '-a I • '^5*S 52 

Stony ground, to manage . . . . . . . . . 14 

Sultan, white and purple . . . • • . . . . . 56 

Sunflower, everlastirg .. .. .. .. ..34 

Sweet Peas . . . . . . . . . . • • 58 

to raise early . . . . • • . . . . 59 

Sweet-williams . . . . . . . . . . 35, 50, 53 

Thrift ... .. .. .. .. • 

Tools. Ladies' garden .. .. •• 16 

Transplant Perennials and Biennials, when to . . . . . . 34 



INDEX. 119 

Trees, to ornament the trunks of . . . . . . 18 

Tuberous root, term explained . . . . . . 27 

rooted Flowers . . . . . . . . . . 36 

rooted Flowers and Bulbs, list of .. ... .. ..41 

Tulips .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 38 

Venus' Looking-glass . . . . . . . . . . 59 

Verbena, scarlet . . . . . . . . . . 35 

Violets . . . . . . * . . « . . . . . . 29 

Wall-flowers . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 

Window Gardening . . . . . . . . e , 76 




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